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Everest, Shisha and Cho Oyu daily wrap-up: Summits and more summits!
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Sep 27, 2004 09: 53 EST

Sunday was SUMMIT DAY for many teams on Cho Oyu: Andrew Lock bagged his teth 8000+ peak, and Reus 8000 team-members got their first summit - at last! Jean Pavillard's team summited as well and others are going up.

Monday was SUMMIT DAY for Shisha Pangma! At 2.20 pm local Tibetan time the expedition leader Mario Vielmo and Cristina Castagna reached the summit of Shisha Pangma.

The Everest expedition have compiled their post expedition reports, more in a separate story later today.

Weather:

No jet in the ME-area. Wind: 9000 m variable 5 m/s, from Tuesday west-southwest , slowly increasing to 7-10 m/s. 7500 m variable, from Tuesday west to southwest 5 m/s.

Throughs will pass from Afghanistan to Tibet during the period giving showers most of the days over ME-area.

Monsoon:
Southwest monsoon has withdrawn from parts of Punjab & West Rajasthan. No significant change in the beginning of the period.


Everest North:

The Dutch team is back in Khatmandu, sad to have been forced to abort the expedition. Team member Harry is furious. He reports deep disagreement and misunderstandings among the climbers and between climbers and sherpa staff as the main reason to call it quits. Yeah, we've seen that one before. The snow can burn your eyes but only people make you cry.

Cho Oyu:

Reus8000 team summit! The Doc, his son and their friend worked fast: At 2.20 pm local time on Sunday, the Catalan climbers were on the top of Cho Oyu, experiencing their first himalayan summit. Emili Duran and Juan Luis Benitez have been on previous expeditions, including an earlier Cho Oyu attempt, but for 24 years old Daniel (Emili’s son), this was the final in a series of firsts: He was on his first ever airplane ride when going to Nepal, he went to his first ever 8000er, and made his first summit. It has been a good late summer for this guy.

Jean Pavilliard’s team made the summit too. He experienced problems with the sat phone connection, similar to other teams close to the summit of Cho Oyu, and called in the news. Read a separate story on the Cho Oyu comm dead spot later today on Human Edge Tech.

Jamie McGuinness is just back from escorting a sick client down to Zhangmu and so now is on his own, but has yet to sleep a night above ABC so has ruled out fast ascents. Project Himalaya is providing BC-ABC support for Andrew Lock and Zac Zaharias's team.

Carlos Pauner is progressing fast. He set off today to Camp 2 for a summit attempt on the 28th. Carlos is skipping camp 3 altogether. Carlos also mentions Ivan Vallejo and Santiago Sagaste, they are still aclimatizing on Cho Oyu before attempting Shisha’s British route, and Spanish climber Jorge (this could be Jorge Egocheaga, who summited Everest and attempted K2 this summer).

Inaki Ochoa plans a fast summit attempt starting Midnight on 27-28 September from Lake/Half camp (~6000m), in one push. Already this season two people have climbed from the same spot in around 8-9 hours. In response Inaki said that he was climbing for himself and the record would be a bonus only, not the aim.

In Spring 2002 Marty Schmidt climbed from the same spot to the summit in around 10 hours, carrying all his own gear and arriving before sunrise: ie no pre-placement or pacers unlike the speed ascents on Everest. Marty and one client left yesterday for a single push attempt, but no thought of breaking records.

Bergans Big Mountain Expedition climbed to 6400 and had a few turns down on skis. All good.

Shisha Pangma:

Mario Vielmo and Cristina Castagna reached the summit of Shisha Pangma early afternoon local time today. More in separate story today.

Fredrik Ericcson Reached C1 last week and made some ski descents from 5000 meters. He planned to try to reach C2 during the weekend.

Viladecans Catalan team Set C2 Saturday on Shisha Pangma’s normal route.

Seven Summits Everest North | Dutch team on Everest North | Alpine Ascents on Cho Oyu | Cho Oyu Jean Pavilliard’s dispatches | Catalonian Reus 8000 team on Cho Oyu | Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition | Fredrik Ericsson on Shisha Pangma | Osona-Maresme Catalonians to Shisha Pangma | Catalan Viladecams team to Shisha Pangma | Iñaki Ochoa | Jamie McGuinness | Carlos Pauner

Live image over Contact 3.0 of Cho Oyu Camp 2, courtesy of Jean Pavilliard


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