Everest, Shisha and Cho Oyu daily wrap-up: Summit Push
Sep 24, 2004 12: 08 EST
Cho Oyu is bursting with activity. Newcomers acclimatize in a hurry; AA celebrates their summit, and the rest of the climbers are in different stages of summit bids.
Weather:
Jet: No jet in the ME-area. There is an almost stationary southwesterly jet throughout the period over northern Pakistan and China.
Wind:
9000 m: West-northwest 5-10 m/s.
7500 m: Northwest-north about 5 m/s.
Weather:
Several troughs will pass during the period giving some showers most of the days over ME.
Monsoon:
The trough of Monsoon runs from Karnataka to West Bengal. Heavy activity in eastern states of India.
Cho Oyu:
Alpine Ascents team is back in base camp. Here is Dave’s summit debrief, sent yesterday: “Our summit day started out a bit questionable. We awoke at 1 a.m. to heat water and assess the weather. Lakpa and I thought the visibility was dismal. There were gusty strong winds and we couldn’t see far.
As the hour progressed we were able to see stars through the spindrift and snow indicating the cloud layer wasn’t thick. After gearing up and downing a hot drink we headed out just before 4 a.m. Even though a team had left an hour and a half earlier we were breaking our own trail to the base of the yellow band.
At the top of the yellow band the visibility was still dismal and the going slow in soft snow but as we gained the ridge the clouds blew out and we could see down to CI and CII. It stayed clear but windy as we gained the summit plateau and we remained above the clouds. The proper summit was being blown by a long plume that we had to stand in.
As we took the obligatory photos and celebrated we got 2 or 3 short glimpses of Everest, Lhotse, Pumori and Gyachung Kang standing above a blanket of clouds covering the Khumbu valley. Thankfully our descent was uneventful. The reports from ABC were that as we neared CIII the entire summit was capped by a large lenticular cloud.”
Inaki Ochoa with Cristina Orofino, Oscar Fernandez and Aitor Iparaguirre, are at Camp II (7.100 meters) of Cho Oyu. The will try to climb to Camp III (7.550 meters) tomorrow and Sunday to the
summit. Patxi Viguria, Mertxe Orofino, Miguel Angel Lagurdia and Ignacio Barrio are coming down to
base camp.
Jean Pavilliard’s team planned to proceed up to C2 today.
Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition is in Cho Oyu ABC.
Reus8000 team should have left ABC, in order to reach the summit on September 26th or 27th as planned.
Jamie McGuinness and Project Himalaya are in Advance Base Camp. So is Spanish climber Carlos Pauner.
Shisha Pangma:
Catalan teams: Osona-Maresme - four climbers reached C1 today in improved weather. If the weather holds they will make carry to C2 in the next days. The Viladecans - are in ABC ready to launch their summit bids.
Italian Silvio Mondinelli along with three Andorran climbers - Oriol Rivas, Ramon rossel and Xavi Bonati - are in Shisha Pangma south side’s ABC. They are waiting for the weather to improve. Meanwhile, four Czech climbers have also reached the foot of the mountain.
Seven Summits Everest North | Dutch team on Everest North | Alpine Ascents on Cho Oyu | Cho Oyu Jean Pavilliard’s dispatches | Catalonian Reus 8000 team on Cho Oyu | Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition | Fredrik Ericsson on Shisha Pangma | Osona-Maresme Catalonians to Shisha Pangma | Catalan Viladecams team to Shisha Pangma | Iñaki Ochoa | Jamie McGuinness | Carlos Pauner
Image of climbers on their summit bid, courtesy of Alpine Ascents
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