Everest, Shisha and Cho Oyu daily wrap-up: Carlos and Inaki's speedy Cho Oyu summ
Sep 28, 2004 14: 29 EST
Who said the thrill was over on Cho Oyu after the weekend's summits? Carlos Pauner reached the top after 26 hours; Iñaki Ochoa in 11 from ABC to summit. It's not a world record, but a very fast way to “enjoy the climb”, as they both declared to be their main aim on Cho Oyu. Today's wrap-up includes yesterday's summits as well, you'll find details on many of them in yesterday's news.
Weather:
Jet: No jet in the ME-area.
Wind: at 9000 m: West-southwest 5-10 m/s. At 7500 m: West to southwest 5m/s.
Monsoon: Southwest monsoon withdrawal line passes through Nalia, Deesa, Kota, Gwalior and Kheri.
Weather: Troughs will pass from Afghanistan to Tibet during the period giving rain and thundershowers almost every day over ME-area.
Cho Oyu:
Iñaki Ochoa and Carlos Pauner both summited this morning. Inaki left the group he was guiding in ABC and ran up from that point up to the summit, reaching the top in 11h16’.
Already this season two people have climbed from the same spot in around 8-9 hours. In Spring 2002 Marty Schmidt climbed from the same spot to the summit in around 10 hours, carrying all his own gear and arriving before sunrise: ie no pre-placement or pacers unlike the speed ascents on Everest.
Besides “enjoying the climb” (and breaking some personal records) Iñaki’s mission was to retrieve a barometer (5kg) from the summit plateau and carry it to the summit.
Carlos reached C2 on Sunday and skipped Camp 3 altogether on his summit bid. None of them used supplementary O2. See separate story.
Andrew Lock summited Cho Oyu, his 10th 8000+ peak on Sunday. Now he is moving to Shisha Pangma SW face, to climb there with Italian Silvio Mondinelli and the Andorran climbers.
Hungarian Dávid Klein summited Cho Oyu 7:41 Nepali time on the 25th of September. Dávid climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen. It's his second 8000+ peak, after summiting Gasherbrum II last summer.
Jean Pavilliard reached the summit on Sunday, along with Monica, Tom, and Sherpas Purba and Dawa.
Reus 8000 Catalan team reached the summit on Sunday, w/o 02 or porters. All three members Emili Duran, Daniel Duran and Juan Luis Benito summited.
Alex Txicon and Igor Astondoa from Iñaki’s team, reached the top on Sunday. Other team-members may launch a new summit bid tomorrow.
Amical team news didn't arrive until yesterday, although they were perhaps among the first to summit. According to their report: "Our Cho Oyu Expedition was successful last Friday. 3 members and our Tour guide Rainer Pircher reached the top at arround 7.00 am. They will leave BC on Wednesday.”
Bergans Big Mountain Expedition are back for a rest at 4900m. "Time to rest after yesterday's climb. Decided to go down to 4900 m as I figure that my recovery will be better there than on BC 5700 meter. 'Climb high, sleep low' is my mantra. I'll rest 2 days down here and then go back up, either for another acclimatization trip - or a summit push - pending my condition. You'll know in a week!"
Shisha Pangma: :
Jordi Godayol, from Osona-Maresme Catalan team reached the summit yesterday, without supplementary O2 or Sherpa porters.
Mario Vielmo and Cristina Castagna reached the summit of Shisha Pangma early afternoon local time yesterday.
Fredrik Ericcson was possibly with Jordi on the summit push yesterday.
Viladecans Catalan team Set C2 Saturday on Shisha Pangma’s normal route.
Seven Summits Everest North | Dutch team on Everest North | Alpine Ascents on Cho Oyu | Cho Oyu Jean Pavilliard’s dispatches | Catalonian Reus 8000 team on Cho Oyu | Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition | Fredrik Ericsson on Shisha Pangma | Osona-Maresme Catalonians to Shisha Pangma | Catalan Viladecams team to Shisha Pangma | Iñaki Ochoa | Jamie McGuinness | Carlos Pauner
Image of Carlos Pauner mid way up on Cho Oyu, shot by Santi Sagaste, courtesy of Carlos Pauner
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| | End of season... Jun 4, 2005 | | Ranulph Fiennes turns back on Everest Jun 3, 2005 |
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