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Daily wrap-up: Sky descent, tech report and increasing winds
image story

Sep 30, 2004 11: 37 EST
Scattered climbers are left on Cho Oyu, and Shisha blew up on the 27th: Fredrik made it to the Central summit, reported 20 summiteers that day, and skied down from around 7000 meters.

In increasing winds, more climbers are moving to Shisha Pangma, the N and SW routes. Also Ama Dablam and Pumori over in Nepal are coming up. And an interesting sat comm update from Alpine Ascents cyber climbers.


No jet in the ME-area. Wind 9000 m: West-southwest 5-10 m/s. Monday-Tuesday increasing to 15-20 m/s.
7500 m: Between west and north about 5 m/s. From Sunday-Monday west increasing to 10-15 m/s.
Throughs will pass from Afghanistan to Tibet during the period giving rain or rainshowers almost every day over ME-area.
Monsoon: Southwest monsoon withdrawal line passes through Nalia, Deesa, Kota, Gwalior and Kheri.


Did you read the Cho Oyu sat phone report on HumanEdgeTech the other day? Here's an update from Thailand and David Morton, Cho Oyu expedition leader for Alpine Ascents:

"I spoke to at least 4 people having the same problem at Cho Oyu ABC with Thuraya phones. At some point after being in ABC for a while all of the phones switch to operating with the 'Thuraya Thuraya' display/network rather than 'Thuraya China'.

It seems to take a while for this change to happen but all that were there had this happen. The Singapore team's Thuraya that had been successfully changed back - they called their salesperson in Pakistan and had them work on trying to get it switched back and it was a success after about a week. Two sherpa sirdars who own Thurayas purchased in Nepal said they always have that problem in China.

My phone that is not data enabled and never used for data never switched over. The other interesting fact is that once the phone switches over to the 'Thuraya Thuraya' display/network you can make voice calls out of China but you cannot make calls within China. Sherpa were trying to call Lhasa on our phone and calls wouldn't work but would work anywhere else - Nepal, US, etc.

Each person having the problem called their various support numbers and everyone was told that all that needed to be done was to reset the GPS and other solutions that didn't work. The support people are all dumbfounded by this too. Perhaps it's a Chinese scrambling thing?"

Cho Oyu:

Iñaki Ochoa: Some climbers from the team he is guiding may launch a new summit bid later this week.

Bergans Big Mountain Expedition Rest at 4900m. A possible summit push is up for the weekend.

Jagged Globe Soren Gudman, Jack Jakobczyk, Wyn Morgan and Sherpa Thundo reached the summit of Cho Oyu in excellent weather on Saturday 25 September. Michele Cohen reached a high point of 7,850m before returning to Camp 3. The team returned safely from the mountain and have had a couple of days to rest and recuperate from their efforts. They will leave ABC 28 Sep for Tingri and on to Kathmandu the following day. Two of the team, Soren and Terry, will leave Tingri for Shishapangma Chinese Base Camp and on to ABC. They will join the Jagged Globe Shishapangma expedition led by David Hamilton

Norway A Norwegian expedition of four climbers is climbing Cho Oyu, Their latest report has them resting in ABC, getting ready for a summit push. The expedition is participating in a medical research project testing remote diagnostic via satellite link to "Rikshospitalet" (The Norwegian National Hospital). An electronic stethoscope is part of the equipment, letting medical experts in Norway diagnose expedition members at Cho Oyu.

Jamie McGuinness and Project Himalaya are on a summit push.

Shisha Pangma:

Viking sky skier Fredrik Ericsson reached Central summit and skied down a few hours later. "I am a tired but happy back in advanced basecamp. The 27:th was a good day for climbing on Shisha Pangma, more than 20 people reached the summit. Among them a 69 years old man (using oxygen) and my Italian friends Mario and Christina."

Viladecans Catalan team Will spend the night in C1; climb to C2 on Friday, to C3 on Saturday and attempt the summit on Sunday. That is, of course, weather permitting.

SW British route Italian Silvio Mondinelli, along with three Andorran climbers are attempting the summit in alpine style. Australian Adrew Lock, Ecuatorian Ivan Vallejo and Spanish Santiago Sagaste are on their way from Cho Oyu with the same purpose.

Seven Summits Everest North | Dutch team on Everest North | Alpine Ascents on Cho Oyu | Cho Oyu Jean Pavilliard’s dispatches | Catalonian Reus 8000 team on Cho Oyu | Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition | Fredrik Ericsson on Shisha Pangma | Osona-Maresme Catalonians to Shisha Pangma | Catalan Viladecams team to Shisha Pangma | Iñaki Ochoa | Jamie McGuinness | Carlos Pauner

Pushing on to Camp 2 on Jagged Globe's successful 2003 Cho Oyu expedition, Photo Terry Moore

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