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Everest, Shisha and Cho Oyu daily Wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit push!
Sep 16, 2004 07: 19 EST
Things are warming up, at least on Cho Oyu: As more teams are trying to find a vacant spot for their tents in BC, others are getting ready to launch their summit bids. A Singaporean team could be the first on top this season.
Weather:
An upper low over southern parts of Bangladesh moves slowly northwestwards and will affect mount Everest area with precipitation.. The low is weakening from Sunday and the weather will slowly improve but still some showers are to be expected.
Winds forecasted between 5- 10 m/s at summit level, from Sunday mostly around west. At 7500m, winds are variable 5m/s, slightly increasing from Sunday to 5-8 m/s mostly west-southwest.
There is no jet in the area. The trough of Monsoon runs from south Konkan to Karnataka, resulting in heavy activity in northeastern states of India.
Everest North:
The expedition has divided into groups. Harry and Sander went for North Col, planning to spend two night up there. Boris, Marc and Werner will go up too. Sherpas will try to fix ropes up to C2, at 7500, if the deep snow allows them to proceed. If they are successful, some of the climbers will try to follow to increase acclimatization.
Cho Oyu:
Alpine Ascents Dave reported yesterday: “What a glorious day- particularly because we are back here at our warm and comfortable ABC! We returned from up high yesterday in time for a late lunch, great dinner, a 7 p.m.
Our climb up to CII was quite a push. It’s a hell of an effort getting our gear and our bodies from CI to CII at 7100 m./23,000+ ft. Paul, Tony, Terry and David all did extremely well climbing to CII- sleeping up there is a different matter. We all had our difficulties. It’s sufficed to say no one woke up bright eyed and bushy tailed.
Everything is in place now for our summit push. ABC is teeming with activity. There are so many expeditions it’s hard to keep track of at this point. The only expedition that was here at ABC before we arrived has just set off this morning for their summit push - an expedition from Singapore.
The other two teams that arrived at ABC with us are in a similar position. So we’re poised for the next run up to be the summit push while many teams are still arriving here in ABC. As I type this there is a group of Sherpa carving out platforms for an expedition arriving today who will be forced to camp near our camp as the main area of ABC runs out of good camping space. We are on the outskirts so to have an expedition so close is indicative of how busy this season is.
We’ll be here in ABC at least 2 more full days before we look toward the summit push. We’ll be watching weather and monitoring how we’re all feeling.”
Jean Pavillard reports his whole team made it to CI.
Iñaki Ochoa and friends latest report: “Five days after arriving to ABC (5.650 meters), Iñaki Ochoa de Olza and crowd have set Camp I (6.400 meters) on the west face of Cho Oyu. Next plan is setting C2 at 7.000 meters and C3 at 7.400. This last camp will be only used during the final summit push, wich will take place by September 23rd."
Jamie McGuinness Project Himalaya last report from BC 4950m: We awoke to the sun hitting early, around 6:30, yak bells tinkling and already lots of action around the camp with one expedition packing their loads. We watched an Asian trekking group packing and having the loads weighed.
Each climbing member is allowed 3 yak loads totaling 180kgs, and each sherpa 60kgs. that sounds like a lot, but once you put in all the kitchen supplies it is not quite enough. This team were light and lucky, they came in at only two loads over, and so the cook left behind two cooking gas bottles so that they didn't have to pay any extra money.
Shisha Pangma:
Ecuadorian climber Ivan Vallejo is acclimatizing on Cho Oyu and afterwards will proceed to Shisha Pangma SW face, to attempt the British route in alpine style, along with Spanish Santiago Sagaste. Italian Silvio Mondinelli along with a small team of 3 climbers from Andorra have the same goal for Shisha.
Swedish Fredrik Ericsson and the Catalan Osona-Maresme team planned to set CI by the end of this week. Fredrik will attempt a sky descent from the summit. Catalan Viladecamps team have reached Shisha’s Chinese Base Camp. They are on their way to BC, along with a Vasque team sharing the same permit.
Seven Summits Everest North | Dutch team on Everest North | Alpine Ascents on Cho Oyu | Cho Oyu Jean Pavilliard’s dispatches | Catalonian Reus 8000 team on Cho Oyu | Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition | Fredrik Ericsson on Shisha Pangma | Osona-Maresme Catalonians to Shisha Pangma | Catalan Viladecams team to Shisha Pangma | Iñaki Ochoa | Project-Himalaya
Live image over Contact 3.0 of climbers on their way to C2 on Cho Oyu, courtesy of Alpine Ascents
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2004
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