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Daily Wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit, Shisha push, Everest over
image story

Sep 21, 2004 13: 06 EST
The entire team of Alpine Ascents team summited Cho Oyu this morning. Others were on their way to the top from Camp 3. Be ready for more good news during the week. Not so good are news from Everest, where the expedition has called it quits.


Heavy activity of southwestmonsoon over eastern parts of India during the period. Some upper troughs will pass north of ME but will affect the mountain area at times with showers. Some improvement in weather can be seen during Friday-Saturday. Winds will blow West-southwest 5-10 m/s at summit level, turning during weekend to northwest. At 7500 m, winds will blow mainly west-southwest about 5 m/s, at times 10 m/s.

No jet in the ME-area. The trough of Monsoon runs from Karnataka to West Bengal. Heavy activity in eastern states of India.

Everest North:

Expedition over. Physical problems among team members - with two of them already on their way home - discussions with the Sherpas about rope fixing and heavy snow have shattered the Dutch team confidence.

Only Harry and Werner were fit to attempt the summit. Therefore, the group has decided to abandon their attempt and return home. The packing was not swift either, as some gear was stolen by yak drivers. Further news are expected next Saturday from Khatmandu. No news on the two men expedition who showed up on the same route a week ago.

Cho Oyu: :

Alpine Ascents Summits! 100% success, no one was left behind. The team is currently back safe in C3.

Jean Pavillard is still in ABC, resting and making sure of the forecasted weather conditions before launching their summit bid.

Iñaki Ochoa’s team is united again and ready to attempt the summit. According to Iñaki’s last call today: “The three climbers (Alex and Javier Txikon and Igor Astondoa) who spent the nigth in Camp 3 (7.550m) on September 17 returned to ABC on the18th. They are tired but in perfect conditions. In the following days, we will try the summit of Cho Oyu depending of the conditions of the route, weather and our strength - once again as a united team.”

Reus8000 team Were yesterday in Camp 2, at 7100m, stocking it with gear and food to be carried up to Camp III. Next step is to return to ABC for a final rest before launching their summit bid.

Jamie McGuinness and Project Himalaya are in Advance Base Camp. Yesterday Jamie wrote: “We woke to light snow but as Dawa, who is a trained lama, prepared for the puja the skies cleared slightly. During the service we had glimpses of the mountain at auspicious times. Andrew Lock arrived at ABC yesterday from Camp 2. Zac and team are on the mountain and will have a puja later. Arnauld and myself plan a day trip to Camp 1 tomorrow; Andrew will probably rest and Evan will begin establishing his camps.”

Shisha Pangma:

Osona-Maresme team Is in ABC waiting for better weather. Yesterday they reported: “Jordi and Quim will climbing to C2 when conditions improve, while Pep and Romi await in ABC. They plan, if conditions are adequate, to proceed all the way to C3 and be therefore able to attempt the summit in ten days.”

Silvio Mondinelli along with three Andorran climbers - Oriol Rivas, Ramon rossel and Xavi Bonati - have established ABC at the foot of Shisha Pangma south side. According to Idel, Mondinelli’s wife: “They left there all the gear necessary to climb the mountain. The weather is still variable. Nevertheless they intent to start climbing tomorrow and check the conditions of the route.”

They are attempting the British route (SW face) just as Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo and Spanish Santiago Sagaste.

Seven Summits Everest North | Dutch team on Everest North | Alpine Ascents on Cho Oyu | Cho Oyu Jean Pavilliard’s dispatches | Catalonian Reus 8000 team on Cho Oyu | Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition | Fredrik Ericsson on Shisha Pangma | Osona-Maresme Catalonians to Shisha Pangma | Catalan Viladecams team to Shisha Pangma | Iñaki Ochoa | Jamie McGuinness

Image of Cho Oyu, courtesy of Alpine Ascents

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