Daily wrap-up: Andrew Lock summits Cho Oyu, his tenth 8000+, Shisha next
Sep 26, 2004 10: 32 EST
Jamie McGuinness and Project Himalaya reports that Andrew Lock, Australia's most accomplished high altitude mountaineer, summitted Cho Oyu 09:30 25 Sept, his 10th 8000m summit - into double figures! From Camp 2 (~7100m) he took a little over 8 hours on a good trail.
"Originally his plan was an 'insurance' summit before trying a new route or variation but snow conditions are horrible with a thin crust and an unconsolidated morass underneath, still potentially very dangerous."
After a few days rest Andrew will head to Shishapangma South West face for an attempt on his number 11. Last Autumn climbing from the north on the same day as Silvio Mondinelli and Jamie McGuinness they climbed the Central summit, snow conditions being too dangerous for the traverse to the true, main summit. Silvio is already on the SW Face, along with two other teams.
"If successful on Shisha Pangma Andrew still has Annapurna (ouch!), Makalu and Kanchenjunga to go. On Kanchenjunga last year climbing with Carlos Pauner, Silvio, Mario and two others last year on a new route Andrew turned back, while all the others summitted but each losing a little something to frostbite; Carlos spent several nights out and his wife was told he was dead before he turned up at BC. Andrew still has all fingers and toes, if not all his brain cells," ends Jamies report.
Inaki Ochoa and his three partners climbed to C2 but have returned to ABC due to physical problems. The problems were not too serious though, and the team could make another attempt in the next days.
Jean Pavilliard’s team and his client Monica are making the first attempt to summit today. Go to his web site and check out his dispatch to get live information from the Mountain.
Shisha Pangma:
Fredrik is attempting to reach camps 1 and 2 on Shisha Pangma.
Seven Summits Everest North | Dutch team on Everest North | Alpine Ascents on Cho Oyu | Cho Oyu Jean Pavilliard’s dispatches | Catalonian Reus 8000 team on Cho Oyu | Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition | Fredrik Ericsson on Shisha Pangma | Osona-Maresme Catalonians to Shisha Pangma | Catalan Viladecams team to Shisha Pangma | Iñaki Ochoa | Jamie McGuinness | Carlos Pauner
Photo by a western climber on Andrew's camera; Everest and Lhotse prominent behind, courtesy of Jamie McGuinness.
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