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Everest, Cho Oyu and Shisha daily Wrap-up: All to Tibet!
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Sep 6, 2004 11: 39 EST
The curfew has been lifted in Kathmandu and expeditions are hurrying out. Climbers have reported a real curfew this time: They have not been allowed to leave their hotels and such. There are hardly any expeditions in Nepal this fall, but quite a few in Tibet: A Catalan expedition reports 11 teams for Shisha and 38 for Cho Oyu!

Everest weather forecast

Teams are not even close to the upper slopes of the mountains, which is a shame, as today would have been a perfect summit day. There is no jet in the area and winds will keep below 5m/s at summit level. From Wednesday increasing northwesterly, later on westerly, wind to 10 m/s. During Friday and rest of period 5-10 m/s. 7500 m: North or northwest 5m/s, from Friday variable.

In general terms, a through over Tibet and Bhutan will pass southwards during Tuesday-Wednesday giving precipitation over the ME-area and unstable weather rest of the period. The receding Monsoon activity will stay mainly southeast of ME.

Everest North:

The Dutch team Sandy and Ruby have joined the team, which is now complete. Harry reports: “The team is very tired and hangs around. Email sending does not work properly. The weather report lets us know that the weather should remain as it is the coming 5 days: little wind, some sun and clouds, one inch of snow each day, so good climbing weather!”

The Sherpas left early morning to fix ropes up to he North Col but, when they returned, reported “there was quite a lot of soft snow on the last section and they had not fixed all the rope, only until about 6800m. As they will have a well deserved rest day tomorrow we cannot execute our plan to go or even sleep at North Col. So instead some of us who feel quite good will do a carry to the top of the ropes, deposit some gear and food and spend the rest of the day in ABC and then go down to BC to rest a day or 2.

The others who feel less good physically and mentally will go straight down to BC directly tomorrow. Who is in group one and who in group 2? We wil see tomorrow as a good or bad night sleep can switch you over in no time ....”

Cho Oyu:

Alpine Ascents Yesterday Dave wrote: “We made our first venture up to CI today and have just returned to ABC. These guys are like yaks, I swear. They just put their head down and plow uphill (they’re already smelling like them too). The trip up to CI includes the notorious scree hill that I think the last expedition nicknamed “Hell Hill”. This team tackled it no problem. So our high point for the day was just under 21,000 ft. and we’ve made a great step in acclimitizing for later on in the climb.

As the monsoon finally moves out this time of year the temperatures will start to drop. We felt the first affects of that last night. During the night the temperature significantly dropped and we woke up with the tents frozen solid from the moisture during the day yesterday. Tomorrow morning we’ll have our puja. These guys are all looking forward to it as none of them have participated in one before. Then the rest of the afternoon and Tuesday we will be resting up for our next trip up to CI when we will spend the night there.”

Jean Pavillard Has reached Cho Oyu base camp, at 4900m, where the whole team -13 climbers- and staff has met.

Reus 8000 The Catalan team planned to leave Nepal at first chance and fly to Lhasa, where they probably are now. Emili, Juan Luis and Dani will drive from the Capital of Tibet to the foot of Cho Oyu.

Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition Tomas Olsson reports from Nyalam, where the team is stayng to acclimatize at 3700m. Soon they’ll reach Cho Oyu BC.

Shisha Pangma:

Ecuadorian climber Ivan Vallejo Is already in Kathmandu. Along with spanish climbing partner Santiago Sagaste, they’ll head up for Shisha Pangma South face, where they plan to climb the British Route in Alpine Style.

Fredrik The Swedish climber and skier is on his way to Shisha Pangma BC, in Tibet.

Osona-Maresme Catalan team Also managed to fly to Tibet despite Kathmandu curfew, and reported on Saturday from Nyalam, where they planned to do an acclimatization climb up to 5000m yesterday. They mentioned there are 11 teams heading for Shisha Pangma, and 38 for Cho Oyu! There seems to be quite a large amount of Catalan (Northwestern Spain) teams climbing Shisha this fall. Juan Carlos Vizcaino and Josep María Moya, from Viladecans, will depart on Sep 9th for Tibet as well, in their third expeditions to the Himalayas.

Seven Summits Everest North | Dutch team on Everest North | Alpine Ascents on Cho Oyu | Cho Oyu Jean Pavilliard’s dispatches | Catalonian Reus 8000 team on Cho Oyu | Bergans Big Mountain Ski Expedition | Fredrik Ericsson on Shisha Pangma | Osona-Maresme Catalonians to Shisha Pangma

Image of Shisha Pangma, courtesy of Catalan Viladecans team.
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