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SUMMIT! A perfect 10 for Ivan!
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Oct 11, 2004 19: 50 EST
Ecuadorian climber Ivan Vallejo summited Shisha Pangma yesterday together with climbing-partners Spanish Santiago Sagaste and the Andorran climbers Oriol Rivas and Ramón Rosell. The team reached the summit at 1.10 pm local time via the British route, on the SW side.

The climbers descended to C2 (7100m) Sunday night and plan to be back in BC today.

Vallejo says the climbers launched their summit bid from BC (5 500 m) Friday at 5:30 am, and didn’t reach the “C1” bivouac (6 700 m) until 4.30 pm. Saturday they took five hours to get to C2 (7100m), climbing on ice sections, couloirs and some rock outcrops.

Their original plan was to go for the summit on Sunday at 2:00 am, but high winds delayed the climber’s departure for two hours.

The final summit push was very slow on the 65/70º steep ridge. Nine hours later, at 1:10pm, they summited and stayed there for 20 minutes before returning to C2.

One day earlier, on Saturday, the four members of the Czech team reached the summit through the same route, describing the ascent “our worst climb ever”.

Ivan Vallejo: Ten out of fourteen

With Shisha Pangma, this is the 10th 8000er for Ivan Vallejo (not the ninth, as we published in a former news piece: te pedimos disculpas, Ivan!). His latest summited eighthousanders were Gasherbrum 1 in summer 2003 and Makalu last spring.

Iván Vallejo was born in Ambato, Ecuador, on December 19, 1959. His first summit was Chimborazo, the highest peak in Ecuador, in 1978. He summited Everest in 1999, and at that moment he decided to go for all the ‘Fourteen’. Up till Shisha, he had bagged 9 of them. Last one was Makalu, this past spring.

Shisha Pangma’s British Route was first climbed in alpine style by R.Baxter-Jones, A. McIntyre and Doug Scout in May 1982. The climbers descended through the SE Ridge.

Image of Ivan Vallejo, courtesy of Ivanvallejo.com

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