Denis Urubko's post Annapurna summer
Agu 22, 2004 14: 23 EST
Kazakh climber Dennis Urubko is one of the frequent climbers here at ExplorersWeb. So what has he been up to since his Anna summit a month and a half ago?
Denis spent the summer sharing experience and skills with the younger generations. Two weeks ago he reached the summit of marble Wall peak (6.400m), in the Tien Shan range, along with climbers from the Central Sport Club of the Kazakhstan Army.
July 19th he won a local speed climb contest in Tien Shan, being the fastest among 28 climbers to get to the top of Noursultan Peak (4376 m) and back.
Denis summited Annapurna May 30 this year. With his usual climbing partner, Simone Moro, he also opened a new route on the highly demanding North Wall of Baruntse. The duo aborted their climb on the summit of the Khali Himal (Baruntse North point). With this acclimatization, they attempted Annapurna immediately after, via Anna's North side. Simone was forced to abort his attempt due to health problems, but Denis made it to the summit during the night and in bad weather.
Last year, Denis and Simone joined an all-star international team which summited Nanga Parbat and broad Peak back to back; only K2 broke their plans to climbing three 8000+ peaks in one season. The climbers turned in bad weather.
The Urubko/Moro team were therefore expected to show up this summer at the foot of K2. But they chose to stay away from the Anniversary crowds.
Last spring the Italian/Kazakh combo Denis Urubko and Simone Moro climbed the North Wall on Baruntse, 7129m. They reached the Kali Himal (Black Summit) of Baruntse, also known as the North Summit at 7014m via a new route up the North Face. The true summit was left untouched due to hard wind. They named the new line "Ciao Patrick" as a tribute to Patrick Berhault.
Patrick was climbing the Dom (4545m) in Switzerland this spring together with Philippe Magnin, when, while pushing for the summit, Patrick had a bad fall. Later, his body was found and brought back to Zermatt. Patrick Bérhault wanted to climb the 82 "official" 4000ers in 82 days. He summited Shisha Pangma in 1988 and Everest 2003.
Image courtesy LaSportiva.com
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