"Ciao Patrick" Baruntse new route report|
May 6, 2004 13: 04 EST
"It was very, very difficult...We gave it all we had, and finally we reached our goal. The North face of Khali Himal, or Baruntse North, is really big, vertical, dangerous and intimidating.
It was virgin and unclimbed, and remained just a dream for the trekkers and climbers laying their eyes on the wall when looking up the mountain. We knew that we would have to use all of our capacities and strength to have success on that face.
For four days, we struggled against the wind and the cold through a mixed climb of ice and rock. For 4 days, we were three people sleeping in a two man tent. We never managed to find a good place for camp and slept with our legs hanging out in the void.
We used ice screws, rock pitons, ice axes, friends and nuts to climb the complicated wall, but the real challenge was the wind and the cold. We had 35 m/s (120 Km/h) wind blowing through the entire climb, and even on the summit! We were very happy to reach our summit through this new route, making the first ascent of it. Next, we spent 12 hours to come down rappelling on a single ice screw 20 times...
The name of the route is “Ciao Patrick”, in dedication to the recently perished climber Patrick Berhault. He was our friend and now our legend.
See below for the specification of the route.Now we will rest and then we will fly to Annapurna I (8091m) for a new challenge.
Thank you for following us
Khali Himal or Baruntse Nord 7066 m
Climbed May 4th 2004 by: Moro Simone G.A, Tassi Bruno”Camos” G.A, Urubko Denis
Via 2550 meters of which last 1350 meters in alpine style
Intermediate camps 3
Difficulty M6+ often bare rock and loose gravel
The maximum difficulties of rock 5+/6
The maximum difficulties of ice between 70° and 90°, fine ice covering granite plates exposed to North West
Bivouacks on wall: 4
Descent 12 hours with 20 full double rappels on the wall.
First off, the Italian/Kazakh combo Denis Urubko and Simone Moro, along with Camos, climbed the North Wall on Baruntse, 7129m.
They reached the Kali Himal (Black Summit) of Baruntse, also known as the North Summit at 7014m via a new route up the North Face. The true summit was left untouched due to hard wind. Next, Simone and Denis will move to Annapurna’s North Face, attempting a new line on it.
Image of climbers working the new route and Patrick Berhault, courtesy Simone Moro/ExWeb.