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Chomo-Lonzo: Sights set on triple-summit traverse
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Apr 28, 2005 11: 33 EST
The FFME team is sizing up Chomo-Lonzo, one of Makalu’s subsidiary peaks. The team reached BC from Tibet and then they split up into several groups to explore the area, acclimatize, and study the best possible routes to their targeted goals: The yet unclimbed central and NW summits.

Black and white sides

Sharing the work this way, they have managed to check out different route-options at the same time. This method has revealed radically different conditions on the opposite sides of the mountain. The NE side receives snow showers every day, while the W-SW is much drier and hosts an abundance of rock outcrops.

Chomo-Lonzo traverse

After two days of rest, the team consisting of Trommsdorff, Graziani, and Wagnon departed yesterday up Chomo-Lonzo’s Western glacier, where they’ll set a higher camp. The first goal is the Northern summit. From that point they can prepare for a second push, in which they will attempt a traverse of Chomo-Lonzo’s three summits.

Meanwhile, the ‘Nicoise’ (from Nice) team, consisting of Moulin, Bonneville, Clouet, Glairon-Rappaz and Benoist went for the central summit via its NE ridge. But they were forced to retreat when they came across a ton of unstable snow. Now they are in BC studying the different route options.

Under the leadership of Christophe Moulin of the FFME, 7 mountaineers have been chosen to compete on two virgin summits of Chomo-Lonzo, a satellite of Makalu. Chomo-Lonzo's main summit (7,790 m) was first climbed in 1954 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy as a pre-climb for Makalu. The central summit (7,540 m) and the NW summit (7,195 m) have never been climbed.

The expedition members are: Patrick Wagnon, Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani, Christophe Moulin, Stephan Benoist, Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, Yann Bonneville and Aymeric Clouet.

Image of Chomo-Lonzo, courtesy of Tibet-travels.com
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