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Chomo-Lonzo: Central summit climbed!
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May 23, 2005 12: 57 EST
Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani, and Patrick Wagnon bagged the previously unclimbed Central Summit of Chomo-Lonzo on May 21st at 6:15 PM, local time.

The summit push took 13 hours. The climbers had to overcome several difficult rock outcrops before reaching the upper snow slopes. Night fell as the climbers were making their way back to their camp at 7400m. After negotiating exposed traverses and delicate rappels in the darkness, the climbers finally reached their tent around four in the morning, May 22nd.

At last, Christian, Yannick and Patrick have reached BC. The team is now packing and getting ready for the trek back to Kharta, where they will be picked up by jeeps and driven to Kathmandu.

Results: Three new routes on two virgin summits

The team is satisfied after achieving all their targeted goals: Completing the first climbs of the Central and North summits of Chomo-Lonzo (the southern, Main summit had been climbed 51 years ago). The French split up into teams to explore the area and try out possible routes. Thus, Trommsdorff, Graziani, and Wagnon summited the North Summit on MAy, 8th via the SW ridge, and the Central summit. A second team consisting of Stéphane Benoist and Patrick Glairon-Rappaz reached the North summit on May,16th through a new, direct route on the West Face of the mountain.

Chomo-Lonzo is a satellite peak of Makalu. The French team approached the mountain from its Tibetan side.

Under the leadership of Christophe Moulin of the FFME, seven mountaineers were chosen to compete on two virgin summits of Chomo-Lonzo, a satellite of Makalu. Chomo-Lonzo's main summit (7,790 m) was first climbed in 1954 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy as a pre-climb for Makalu. The Central Summit (7,540 m) and the NW Summit (7,195 m) had never been climbed before.

The expedition members are: Patrick Wagnon, Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani, Christophe Moulin, Stephan Benoist, Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, Yann Bonneville and Aymeric Clouet.

Image of the new route to Chomo-Lonzo’s Central summit, courtesy of FFME.fr.
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