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Chad Kellog Denali speed ascent update
10:30 a.m. EDT Jun 26, 2003
ExplorersWeb has received more details about Chad Kellog’s recent Denali speed ascent. This past weekend we received early reports that Chad broke the speed record for the West Buttress route on June 17th, with a time of 14 hrs and 22 min. The previous record was 18.5 hrs. Chad’s round trip time was 23 hrs and 55 min.

Chad started his climb at Lisa Roderick's Base Camp tent on the Kahiltna glacier airstrip. She was the timekeeper and had contact with Chad through CB radio for the entire trip. Lisa Roderick is the Base Camp manager at Denali. From May until early July the air services of Talkeetna jointly run a Base Camp. Here is where climbers can get fuel and sleds, as well as arrange a flight out after the climb. Lisa has been the Base Camp manager for several years.

Along Chad’s climb rangers at 14,000ft and a National Geographic crew witnessed him. He also has a summit witness that the National Park Service is aware of.

When Chad called from the summit he spoke with Mark Westman and Lisa Roderick. He also had the witness take his photo and a photo of his watch, clocking in at 14hrs 22 min. Chad has the widely recognized speed record for Mt. Rainier, in Washington State, USA, where he was previously a park ranger. Kellog has also made a push on Ama Dablam to beat Alex Lowe’s record, but came up a little short on the record.

This July, Chad will be heading over to Kazakhstan to compete in the international speed climbing competition on Khan Tengri. He is the only American currently entered in the contest and also has permits to climb nearby Pobeda and Lenin. He’s going to try for some speed records on those mountains as well.

Image of Chad courtesy of the Kellogs.

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