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Babanov on McKinley South new route
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May 26, 2004 16: 53 EST
Valeriy Babanov made the first ascent of Nuptse-East last fall. It was the last and highest unclimbed mountain in the world. He is also the recent winner of a second Golden Ice Axe. So where is he now? Try Denali South Face and a new route to boot.

Here is what he wrote before he left for the mountain:

"I will fly from Calgary to Anchorage on May 15. One day ahead of me Fabrizio Zongrilli will fly there from the US.

Back in Himalaya at Nuptse Base Camp I was camping tent to tent with the American team. Fabrizio and Billy were my neighbors for more than a month.

Together with Fabrizio, I will be on the glacier at Denali’s Kahiltna Base Camp by May 16 or 17. This is the starting point for all expeditions heading to Mt. McKinley

The plan is to climb a new route on the South Face of Mt. McKinley (6,194m)

Valeriy Babanov"

Valeriy is climbing the South Face right now and expects to be back in Calgary around June 15th.

This past fall was Valeriy Babanov's third attempt on Nuptse East in one year. Prior to Nuptse East, 7804m, Babanov made a remarkable solo first ascent on northern wall of Meru Central peak (the ‘shark fin’) in 2001. Valeriy along with Yuri Koshelenko won the Golden Ice Axe for the climb on Nuptse East.

Image of Valeriy on Nuptse East courtesy of babanov.com.

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