Babanov and Yura DID IT
17:42 p.m. EST Nov 4, 2003
Mountain.ru received the message from Babanov at 1.00 PM EST. The Nuptse team is safely back in BC after a successfull summit bid.
Valery reports: "On Sunday, November, 2 we summited Nuptse East. We took of from the 7450m Camp at 8.40am for the summit push, we did it and returned at 00.30am to our tent to sleep. The latest three days before making summit bid we couldn't sleep at all, it was terribly cold cold, we kept the legs in the chest one another. We had only a tent, a foam pad, down jackets and a gas-jet. This is a very serious summit and great success!"
Yura Koshelenko adds: "The summit is splendid! We were very lucky - the weather was pretty much steady through the time period that we needed. But it was strong wind on the summit, thanks God we didn't get frost bitten.
Our entire ascent is a great overcoming: two nights without sleeping bags, the M4-M5 climbing upper 7450m. We're dead tired."
Timeline of the summit bid:
Start in the morning on October, 29,
sleep at 6200m,
October, 30 we moved up to 6900m,
October, 31 - up to 7200
November, 1 - up to 7450
November, 2 summited and back to 7450m
November, 3 descended to 6900m
November,4 we returned to BC at about 17.30 (Moscow time)
Valery and Yura will rest three days and then set out
again to take down the fixed ropes.They are planning to be in Moscow on November, 16.
It is Valery Babanov's third attempt on the peak in one year. Prior to Nuptse East, 7804m, Babanov made a remarkable solo first ascent on northern wall of Meru Central peak (the "shark fin ") in 2001. Joining him this year is Yuri Koshelenko.
Image of Yura and Babanov courtesy of Mountain.ru