A chat with Andres Delgado: Everest without Oxygen, Part II of III
12:27 p.m. EST Feb 24, 2004
Andres Delgado is a seasoned Himalayan climber. He’s been on K2, summited Everest with oxygen, stood atop Cho Oyu three times, and also reached the fore summit of Broad Peak. This spring he’ll be on Everest with a joint Mexican/Canadian team and will be climbing without oxygen. ExplorersWeb recently caught up with him to chat about his upcoming Everest and K2 expeditions.
Today, part two: Everest and K2 - a double header
ExWeb: We've heard that you'll be heading to K2 this summer after Everest?
Delgado: I believe that the climbing season in Pakistan is getting shorter and the good weather windows are not enough to get acclimatized and then go for the summit.
I think that in order to climb K2 you most be pre-acclimatized on another 8000m peak. I don't believe there is enough time to acclimatize on Broad Peak, G1, or G2 and then jump on K2. That is why I want to try Everest first - in order to get acclimatized. K2 is in my sights, logistics are being prepared and tuned up.
Yes I want to go to K2 after Everest but on top of K2 I have to focus on not getting frostbite, staying healthy and strong... besides focusing on the summit of Everest of course... after all that is done, I can put all my attention and strength into K2.
ExWeb: Who do you plan to be climbing K2 with this summer?
Delgado: Might join an ATP group for permit. Climbing team is not yet decided. A lot of good friends will be in base camp and offerings of joining them have been made. Names are not yet to be said due to uncertainty to money.
ExWeb: Any thoughts about summiting all the 14, 8000ers? Is that something you might do?
Delgado: Not in a million years!!! No way. That is not my goal. I would like to see myself as looking for new lines or training for technical lines. If they are on 8000ers that would be a coincidence. Shisha south face, pure alpine style, Cho Oyu direct from C2 solo, Baffin Island, and Cerro Torre are good examples of the style I want to pursue.
Wednesday, part three: Favorite and most frightening climbs
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