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Everest and Himalaya daily wrap-up: A mountaineer's life - fear and faith
Apr 13, 2005 17: 40 EST
No matter how cute a picture many commercial expeditions try to paint of an Everest climb; the independent guys continue to get the truth out. It being, that an Everest summit always rests on a long route of risk and hope combined.
“There is a recovery team heading out, but no one is talking about it,” reported Terry from the Kanatek Canadian expedition. Rumors of an accident have spread through the Khumbu valley. Apparently, two climbers might have been blown off a peak near Everest during the past weekend’s storm. However, there is no official confirmation yet.
Meantime, on the North side, rock samples found by the Chinese scientific expedition indicate that the Everest summit once exceeded 12,000 meters in height.
Everest Weather
Winds still high, but slight relief ahead
Winds are still howling at the peak, as the jet stream remains right over the Mount Everest area. At 9000m (29,528 ft) winds are still 40-50 m/s (89-112 mph). Thankfully, the jet stream should weaken in several days, bringing a slight decrease in wind speed: 30-35 m/s (67-78 mph). Still hurricane-force, though.
A weak ridge over the Everest area continues to cause dry conditions. But the forecast promises more unsettled weather and showers over the weekend.
Everest North
Seven Summits club/Alpindustria Adventure team
Alexander Abramov is in Kathmandu looking after Serguey Kaimachnikov, who was injured in a Maoist attack last Saturday. “As soon as I solve all the problems with Serguey, I am going to leave for Tibet and join the expedition,” Alexander said. “I am sure that Nikolay Cherny is performing as expedition leader as well as I could. And the whole program we planned will be fulfilled.”
Read more in previous ExWeb updates and a new separate story we are publishing today.
Indian Air force and Army
Latest news on the Indian teams is that the ladies’ dining and storage tents were shredded by the strong winds. The Air Force guys in turn have fixed their BC, conducted a puja ceremony, and started moving up to the intermediate camp. Read more in a separate ExWeb story published yesterday.
Esplugues al Everest
"The sunny skies contrasted today with a strong, unnerving wind. We spent the day getting all our gear ready to climb Island Peak. Weather permitting, we will set off tonight at one in the morning aiming for the top.”
Jean Pavilliard and Monica
“The wind has calmed down giving us a chance to repair gear, set the solar panels to recharge the electronic equipment and hike above camp to acclimatize,” reported Jean. The team too was hit by the fury of the hurricane-force winds during the last days.
Everest South
Kanatek
Back in Gorak Shep, from Everest BC, Terry reports on alarming rumors:
“We had unconfirmed reports today of two deaths on a neighboring mountain of people who, literally, got blown off the mountain in the recent windstorm. There is a recovery team heading out that way, but no-one is talking about it.”
Terry Kell is returning to Kathmandu, with most of the expedition party; they will return to Canada within the next 7-10 days. Harold Mah is staying at Base Camp to support Sean Egan when he makes his summit attempt in May.
Alpine Ascents
“This is Jose Luis reporting from Everest Base Camp. The wind has subsided a bit so it feels warmer here. The whole team is back together since Vernon arrived this morning playing his little guitar.”
“After having lunch, we prepared our gear in order to review rappelling and ladder crossing. For the latter we used two aluminum ladders lashed together and a couple of fixed lines on either side of them.”
Adventure Consultants
AC team is in Lobuche, trying to get used to the altitude effects.
“For many members of our group, last night was the first time sleeping at 4900 meters. While the experience can be novel, it is not necessarily easy. Some folks had their first episode of the headache and sleeplessness that can occur with high altitude. According to our itinerary another rest day was planned for today to help folks work with these challenges. “
“As we settle in for another night at Lobuche, Luis (fondly known as Luigi by the group) should be enjoying a reunion with the rest of the AC team at base camp. The rest of us will arrive tomorrow.”
Everest traverse
Luis has reached Base Camp, as AC team had reported. Here is his latest dispatch:
“Finally it has happened! Lhakpa, Piers and I have arrived in base camp today. Spirits are high, as being back at the base of this majestic wonder holds us all in awe. Piers asked me pointedly today how I can come back here year after year. I must say after a long walk here with plenty of time to think and listen to music, I think I come here every year to re invent myself. Where else can you unplug from the world for 2 months and challenge yourself in ways you never thought possible?”
Singapore NUS Centennial
“High winds whipped the tents at Camp 1 as well as Base Camp yesterday (Monday) evening and it became clear that the team might not be able to move up to Camp 2 at 6 in the morning as planned. By 8:30 am, however, the winds at Camp 1 had abated somewhat. Robert suggested moving up to Camp 2. All agreed and the team set off just after 10 am. Most of the members arrived at Camp 2 by 1:45 pm and they all headed back to Camp 1 before dark.”
Valencia Expedition
The team is in Namche Bazaar, acclimatizing and nursing Jorge’s sore throat. They plan to leave tomorrow for Tyengboche.
Cho Oyu
Ed Viesturs
“Hi everyone,” greeted Ed Viesturs yesterday. “I've just arrived at Camp I. Cho Oyu gave us a perfectly beautiful day today, clear with a slight breeze. Even though I was carrying a heavier load than I was the day before, I shaved a little over an hour off of the time to get here, so that kind of shows the acclimatization is working. Hopefully tomorrow we'll make a carry to Camp II and then return to here and see how we feel after that.”
Adventure Consultants
Singapore Mountaineers w/o O2
Singapore NUS Centennial expedition´s reports
Alpine Ascents Cybercasts
Jim Williams’ Exploradus dispatches
Dirk Stephan and Keith Woodhouse’s reports
Jean Pavilliard and Monica Kalodzi’s dispatches
International Mountain Guides dispatches
Mountain Madness dispatches
Climbing for a Cure’s dispatches
Esplugues al Everest (Catalan)
Jagged Globe dispatches
7 Summits/Harry Kikstra’s dispatches
Ed Viesturs' dispatches
Shaunna Burke and Ben Webster’s dispatches
Czech Expedition - Hornbein Couloir (English on the right side of page)
Gavin Bate’s – Adventure Alternative
Norway for Everest’s dispatches
Valencia expedition’s website (Spanish)
Canadian Kanatek expedition’s website
Sigrid Hammer’s website
Everest Vitesse 2005 (Italian)
Inaki Ochoa (Spanish)
Ivan Vallejo (Spanish)
Leipzig expedition´s news (German)
Silvio ‘Gnaro’ Mondinelli (Italian)
Mario Merelli (Italian)
O’Brien brothers/HDF expedition’s website
Japanese Team Honda’s website (Japanese)
Gabriel Filippi’s reports through Peak Freak
Image of Island Peak BC Monday, courtesy of Esplugues al Everest expedition team
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| Andrew Lock on Annapurna tragedy: "I wanted to keep on climbing" Jun 6, 2005 | | Gabriel Filippi and Sean Egan's soul, together on the summit of Everest Jun 6, 2005 | | "Supermom" Monica Kalozdi update: Everest Summit and hard descent Jun 5, 2005 | | Robert Milne dies during summit push Everest South Jun 5, 2005 | | Grania Willis summits Everest this morning Jun 5, 2005 | | ExplorersWeb Week-In-Review Jun 5, 2005 | | Himex summit - Update from climber Jun 4, 2005 | | No Mountain top too high, my Love Jun 4, 2005 | | Jagged Globe team summits again! Jun 4, 2005 | | More summits for DCXP/Project Himalaya this morning Jun 4, 2005 |
| | End of season... Jun 4, 2005 | | Ranulph Fiennes turns back on Everest Jun 3, 2005 |
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