Himalaya Autumn 2009 expeditions

Updated: Sep 4, 2009
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes


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EVEREST

Basque Team for the Hornbein Couloir

14x8000ers summiteer Alberto Iurrategi and Juan Vallejo are back on Everest north side for a second alpine style attempt on the Hornbein Couloir. Mikel Zabalza is joining the team. Most recently in spring, the Basque (Spanish) trio attempted Makalu West Pillar.

www.basqueteam.com

Indo-Tibetan Border Police climb+ski expedition

The Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) will climb Everest from the South side. Around eight climbers will attempt a ski-snowboard descent from the summit; remaining 20 members will clean up high camps.

itbpolice.nic.in

Makalu

Ueli Steck for Makalu West Pillar solo

Fresh from summiting GII on his own this summer, Swiss Ueli Steck is ready to attempt a first solo ascent on Makalu West Pillar in a single, lonely push. Photographer Robert Boesch and mountain guide Andy Waelchli will come with Ueli but only as far as BC.

www.uelisteck.ch

Annapurna

South Korean Oh Eun-sun for her final 8000er

Korean Oh Eun-sun aims to become the first female climber to complete the 14x8000ers list on Annapurna this fall. Supported by a strong team of fellow Koreans and Sherpas, only in 2009 she topped-out Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I. Miss Oh's climb will pay tribute to Hyun-Ok Ji's (first female Korean Everest summiteer, who later perished on Anna).

oes.chosun.com
oes.blackyak.co.kr

Jae-Soo Kim' Flying Jump/Kolon Sport team - in Go's name

Jae-Soo Kim will lead an independent Korean team on Annapurna. Kim was Go Mi-sun's climbing partner on all her 12 8000ers until she perished on Nanga Parbat in summer this year and will reportedly take Miss Go's picture up to the top. Also in the team will be Pasang Lama, Kim's and the late Go's mate on K2 last year, when the expedition lost five climbers, including two members in Pasang's family. The expedition intends to pay a tribute to their friends lost on the mountains.

Dhaulagiri

Chilean Dhaulagiri expedition

Patagonian explorer Rodrigo Fica is heading for Dhaulagiri, together with fellow Chileans Andres Guzman and Francisco Giordano. Mountain guide Rodrigo crossed the Patagonian ice-cap N/S, climbed higher peaks in America and Tien Shan, and previously attempted Manaslu. Andres and Francisco are on their first Himalayan experience.

alhimalaya.cl

Manaslu

Altitude Junkies/Project-Himalaya

Phil Crampton is leading a joint Altitude Junkies/Project-Himalaya expedition on Manaslu via the NE ridge.

www.altitudejunkies.com/manaslu.html
www.project-himalaya.com/8000m-manaslu.html

Chilean Ski Manaslu expedition

Climbing as light as possible, with no supplementary O2 or porters, Chilean Andres Jorquera, Alex Koller, Daniel Rutlant and Mario Sepulveda hope to ski up and down the mountain.

www.chile-manaslu.cl

Al Filo de lo Imposible - Edurne Pasaban & Co for her lucky 13th

Spanish Edurne Pasaban hopes to turn Shisha Pangma into her 13th 8000er via the British route on the peak's south side, with regular mates Asier Izaguirre, Alex Chicon and Ferran Latorre (cameraman). If done with Shisha on time, Ferran might try Cho Oyu right after.

www.edurnepasaban.net
www.ferranlatorre.com

Italians for the South side - up a new route?

An Italian expedition will climb Shisha's South face via one of the existing routes or possibily up a new route to the right of Kurtyka-Loretan-Troillet's line. Members are Roberto Piantoni, Marco Astori, Yuri Parimbelli and Adriano Greco.

www.fancymountain.comm

Juanito Oiarzabal's 2x14 8000ers

14x8000er summiteer Juan "Juanito" Oiarzabal aims to bag them all again. With already seven achieved twice, next stop is Shisha Pangma, via the normal route on the north side, sharing permit with fellow Spaniard Carlos Pauner.

www.juanitooiarzabal.com

Kinga Baranowska for her 7th 8000er

After a cool spring ascent on Kangchenjunga (climbing the upper sections on her own), Polish young gun Kinga Baranowska is ready to add another 8000er to her fast-growing record, joining forces with Andrew Lock on Shisha's normal route.

www.kingabaranowska.com

Carlos Pauner

After retreating from Manaslu in spring due to heavy snow, Spanish Carlos Pauner has gathered old friends Javier Perez and Tolo Calafat for a post-monsoon attempt on Shisha's north side, sharing permit, BC and work with Juanito Oiarzabal.

www.carlospauner.com

Mario Panzeri+Nick Rice

His spring summit on Manaslu took three attempts; and now Italian Mario Panzeri is back in Himalaya with Manaslu summit mate American Nick Rice. Panzeri is headed for Shisha's main summit - after reaching the central top in 2005.

www.nickrice.us

Romanians for a new route - tentative

Romanians Levente Lokodi and Ferenc Simon hope to attempt a new route near the British line on Shisha's South face in light style. In their latest update though, the two were still short of funds for (the already booked) departure planned October 9.

www.freewebs.com/expedition

SummitClimb

Dan Mazur will lead the team, also including Bart Dirven (Netherlands), Haris Kiriakakis (Greece), Dr. Karsten Knig (Germany), Richard Pierse (Ireland) and Alejandro Fernandez (Spain).

www.summitclimb.com

Alava Shisha Pangma expedition

SA three-member team from Alava (Basque country) also announced plans to climb Shisha Pangma.

Cho Oyu

Simone Moro for a new route on the SW face

Following his historic first winter climb on Makalu earlier this year (together with Denis Urubko), Italian Simone is now aiming for a new route on Cho Oyu's wild SW face.

www.simonemoro.com

Cleo Weidlich for Cho Oyu + Shisha double header

American Cleo Wiedlich will attempt a Cho Oyu+Shisha Pangma double header, outfitted by Asian Trekking.

www.asian-trekking.com

Mario Merelli, Mireia Giralt & Marco Zaffaroni

After attempting Manaslu in spring, Italian Mario Merelli is back to the Himalayas - this time aiming for Cho Oyu together with fiancee Mireia Giralt and Marco Zaffaroni.

www.mariomerelli.com

Mar del Plata al Himalaya

The Argentinean team comprises Jose Luis Alonso, Fabio Oscar Gonzalez, Jose Luis Burla and Rolando Juan Linzing.

www.alpinismonline.com/mdp.asp

Malta's Challenge8000

Maltese Marco Cremona, Greg Attard and Robert Gatt are climbing Cho Oyu in preparation for Everest next spring.

www.challenge8000.net

SummitClimb

Dutch Arnold Coster is leading the team, assisted by Adam Dixon, Ry Fable, Ridlon Kiphart and Gavin Vickers as leaders-in-training. Members are Alex Johnston (Australia/UK), Stephen Marsh (UK), Scott Patch (USA), Eric Plantenberg (USA), Wiktor Mazur (Canada), Christian Sterr (Germany), James Wilde (USA) And Robert Schulze (Germany).

www.summitclimb.com

Alpine Ascents

The US-based outfitter is launching a fully-supported expedition on Cho Oyu, kicking off on August 28th.

www.alpineascents.com

Norwegian Hvitserk & Eventyrreiser's team

The Norway-based outfitter is launching a Cho Oyu expedition comprising 10 climbers, four norwegian guides and some local guides.

www.hvitserk.no

IMG

IMG's leader is Greg Vernovage (2008 Cho Oyu/spring 2009 Lhotse summiteer).

www.mountainguides.com

Adventure Consultants

Led by Mark Sedon and Mike Roberts (Assistant Guide), the NZ-based outfitter is launching an expedition on Cho Oyu with clients on supplementary O2.

www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/ChoOyu

Brazilian Cho Oyu expedition

Brazilians Manoel Morgado, Ana Elisa Boscarioli and Luiz Fernando da Silva Jr. are climbing Cho Oyu together with Andrea Cardona, from Guatemala.

Amical Alpin

Dominik Mller is leading Amical's expedition, starting on August 28th.

www.amical.de