Himalaya spring 2006 expeditions
Updated: Apr 26, 2006
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes
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Everest West Ridge - Tibet 8848m
British Everest West Ridge 2006
Dave Bunting is leading a 22-member British team on Everest’s West ridge this spring. The team will attempt a combination of West ridge-Hornbein Couloir, instead of the West ridge Integrale (direct) route, in expedition style. The British will attempt the climb from the Northern, Tibetan side of the mountain. Bunting, a member of the British army will try to succeed where two previous British military teams failed during the nineties.
Everest North Face - Tibet 8848m
Basque Everest Japanese-Hornbein Couloir Expedition
EXPEDITION POSTPONED TO SUMMER/FALL 2006
Basque ace climber Alberto Iñurrategi plans to give Everest's Supertcouloir a try in late summer. Teaming up with Juan Vallejo and Jon Beloki, Alberto hopes to reach the base of the mountain by the second half of August, 2006 and be able to climb the 2800m North face of Everest in a light, fast ascent.
Info on the expedition:www.bbk.es
Everest Fantasy Ridge expedition
Scheduled over several years to attempt the unclimbed Fantasy Ridge on Everest, details remain sketchy on this venture and the team is also reportedly having problems funding the expedition.
Everest North Ridge - Tibet 8848m
Ecuador Sin Limites: Ecuadorians w/o O2
'Ecuador sin Límites’ (Ecuador Without Limits), a four-member team will climb Everest from the North Col route. Ready to set and supply higher camps as well as fix ropes, they will hire no high altitude Sherpas. Team members Julio Mesias and Edison Oña are climbing without supplementary O2. Leader Patricio Crausaz and lady climber Paulina Aulestna will decide on their use of O2 depending on how they adapt to altitude.
If successful, Paulina will become the first female Ecuadorian Everest summiteer.
Expedition’s website (Spanish):www.ecuadorsinlimites.com
Brazilian Try On Go Outside Everest – Vitor and Rodrigo w/o O2
For Vitor Negrete and Rodrigo Raineri, this is not their first trip to Everest. On June 2, 2005, Vitor reached the summit but Rodrigo turned back just 50 meters shy from the top. The pair climbed with supplementary O2. This year, however, they hope to be the first Brazilians to reach the top of the world without gas.
Four Brazilians have summited Everest, but none of them achieved the feat without supplementary O2.
Expedition’s website (Portuguese):www.everest2005.com.br
Brazilian Mr. & Ms. Coelho for a No O2 ascent – take 8
The second Brazilian team on Everest (north side) this season is a married couple: Paulo and Helena Coelho. They are true Everest veterans. In fact, this will be their eighth attempt.
And while the duo has failed to summit many times, they've stuck to their climbing principles: To reach the summit without supplementary O2 or high altitude Sherpas.
Last year, unable to change their plane tickets, they were forced to return home two days before the weather finally improved. This year, Paulo and Helena hope for an earlier weather window.Helena Coelho could get a double hitter, becoming the first Brazilian woman to reach Everest, and achieving the feat w/o O2, But she's not the only Brazilian lady going for the Big E this season: Fellow Brazilian Ana Elisa Boscarioli, a member of the Adventure Consultants team, will be climbing the peak from Nepal.
Info on the Coelhos at Webventure (Portuguese):www.zone.com.br/montanhismo
The Vikings are back: Climb + Sky-ski Everest expedition 2006
Swede Tomas Olsson and Norwegian Tormod Granheim are attempting to climb and ski down Everest North Col route this spring. The guys successfully skied down Cho Oyu in fall, 2004. However, logistical problems prevented the pair from attempting a similar feat on Shisha Pangma. Olsson and Granheim have been training hard all winter in Chamonix, French Alps, for the upcoming Everest challenge. Fredrik Schenholm will join the expedition as a photographer.
Tomas’ website (Swedish):www.tomasolsson.com
Swedish Everest Ski expedition
Tomas Olsson isn't the only Swede to attempt to ski the north side of Mt. Everest this year. As part of an ongoing project to ski the Seven summits, the Swedish duo Martin Letzter and Olof Sundstrom are involved in the project of climbing and sky-skiing down the Seven Summits.
Having already skied Elbrus, Denali, Aconcagua, Kosciuszko, and Kilimanjaro during the last three years, This spring will be Everest’s turn.
The team will reach Tibet after driving 12 000 kilometers from Stockholm to Kathmandu, through such countries as Russia, Poland, Romania, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan and India, in a 13 year old Land Rover Defender.
If successful, the team will head to Antarctica this winter, to complete the series by skiing Mt. Vinson during the Antarctic summer 2006/2007.
Expedition’s website (Swedish):www.fangadagen.com
Reports in English on Dinafit's website:www.dynafit.de
American Ski Everest expedition 2006
Colorado Brothers Mike and Steve Marolt also plan to climb Everest via the North Col route, and ski down the mountain. Jeremie Oates, Jim Gile, and Kevin Dunnett will be joining them this spring. The team has been training in the Andes throughout 2005.
From the Dead Sea to the Death Zone: EverestMax expedition
A British team is currently biking from the lowest point of Earth (the shores of the Dead Sea in Jordan), to Everest BC. Once there, some of the cyclists and a “climbing-only” group (totaling 16 climbers) will attempt Everest via North Col route. The 8000km cycling trip began in December 2005; they hope to reach Everest’s Tibetan BC by mid-April.
Among the climbers is French (UK resident) Tarka L’Herpiniere, 23 years old. Tarka, who was forced to postpone an unsupported trip to both Poles for lack of funding, jumped at the chance to attempt Everest.
Yuri Gagarin's space engineer: Boris Korshunov (71) Russian team
A Russian team led by Nickolay Totmjanin will try to set an age record without Sherpas on Everest. Boris Korshunov, Serguey Surmonin and Alexey Bolotov are the Everest cowboys - and not without relation to the seniors in Hollywood's Space cowboys.
Boris Korshunov worked in the special research team preparing Gagarin's flight. In fact, Boris works in the Space industry to this day, that is, when the 7-times Snow Leopard is not out attempting to climb Everest without Sherpas. He is 71 years old.
News on the expedition on:www.russianclimb.com
José 'Pepe' Andrés Blanco: A paralympic's dream + Arun Treks
Spaniard José Andrés Blanco has no experience with high-altitude climbing, and he is 65% physically disabled after a paragliding accident. However, he's got an impressive resume as an adapted cyclist, winning two medals at the Sydney Paralympics Games (2000) as well as many other awards in Spain and Europe.
With very little support, 'Pepe' is attempting Everest from the North Col route. He has joined a non-guided, small team launched by Arun Treks (with only three other members), and hired one high altitude Sherpa. In addition, Blanco is ready to use supplementary O2.
News on Pepe at (Spanish):www.cdcosanuesa.com
Legs on Everest – double amputee Mark Inglis
New Zealander Mark Inglis was a mountain rescuer in Mount Cook National Park. Twenty three years ago he got stuck high on the mountain and both his legs had to be amputated due to frostbite. The handicap did not prevent Mark from summiting Cho Oyu in 2004, and now he is heading for Everest. He will depart NZ on March 25, and will climb via the North Col route.
Andalucía Everest 2006
Spaniards Juan Antonio Huisa and Pedro Lopez have Everest left as the final stage on their Seven Summit’s quest – Kosciusko version. Their latest ascent was Aconcagua which they summited in December 2005.
Pedro and Juan Antonio will be attempting the North Col route, on the Tibetan side. They may join a larger team’s expedition; however, details have not yet been confirmed.
Expedition’s news at:www.deporteandaluz.com
Expedition Everest-UPCT 2006
Spanish firefighter Luis Carlos Garranzo from Cartagena, Spain, is attemtping Everest from its north side, as an independent climber.
Expedition's news (Spanish):www.upct.es/spd
Northern Ireland-England Everest 2006
A six-man team is attempting Everest via the North Col route. Its members are currently involved in the 7 Summits Quest.They are Englishmen Jonathan Salter, and Steve Hodge; and Northern Irish Neill Elliot, Raymond Hassard, Fergal Corrigan, and Geoffrey Weir. The team will use Poisk O2 bottles, attached to Ted Atkins’ masks.
Terres de l'Ebre a l'Everest
After summiting Shisha Pangma in 2004, the Catalan team will be attempting Everest via the North Col route on the Tibetan side.
Team-members are Agustí Pallarés, Ferrán Escrivá, Josep A. Sancho, David Ferrer, Marc Flos, and David Borrás.
Expedition’s website (Catalan):www.terresdelebrealeverest.com
Sant Cugat a l’Everest 2006
This is another Catalan team also climbing via the North Col route on the Tibetan side of Everest. Two of its members, 67 year old Antoni Pifarré, and 21 year old Martí Mañosas are attempting to become the oldest and youngest Spaniards to summit Everest. Other team members include Xavi Aymar, Joan Antoni Barril, Jordi Bosch, Josep M. Casajuana, and Joan Castanyer.
Expedition’s website (Catalan/Spanish/English):www.santcugataleverest.org
Comarques Gironines Everest-2006
This nine-member team, led by Joan Cardona, will also climb Everest from the Tibetan side. However, unlike the other Catalan teams, Comarques Gironines team will trek to the South side’s BC up the Khumbu valley, in order to acclimatize. Then they’ll travel by road to Tibet. Team members are Quico Campos, Joan Cardona, Arnau Julià, Rafel Fuentes, Alfons Gastón, Francesc Masó, Lluís Julià, Jordi Servosa, and David Font Ventura.
Expedition’s website (Catalan):www.girona-everest.com
Spanish Castilla-La Mancha expedition
A team of up to 10 climbers from central Spain will be climbing Everest from the North side this spring. They plan to leave an essay of “Don Quijote” on the summit to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the book’s publication. Those selected to take part in the expedition (climbing team is not yet confirmed) are Óscar Cardo, Francisco Durán, Carlos Ortega, Guillermo Cano, Pedro Antonio Fuentes, Jorge García, Javier Carrascal, Raúl Checa, Raúl Lora, Manuel Novés, José Luis González, and Miguel Ángel Jiménez.
Turkish Everest expedition
The first official Turkish Everest expedition includes 6 (out of 9) climbers from Turkey who have climbed over 8000 meters. Among them are two female athletes who were the first Turkish women to climb an 8000er.
The team will climb Everest North Col route. If they succeed, the ladies would become the first Turkish female climbers to summit Everest.
Team members are: Bora Mavis, Burcak Ozoglu Pocan, Eylem Elif Mavis (female), Hakan Kocakulak, Haldun Ulkenli, Meltem Colak Ozmine female), Mustafa Cihan, Serhan Pocan, Serkan Girgin, Soner Buyukatalay, and Suna Yilmaz (female).
Adventure Peaks + Scott’s top account
AP team (currently five members plus a ‘professional’ team leader) is climbing Everest via the North Col route. They’ll use O2 and high altitude Sherpas (one per climber). Organizers describe their North side expedition on Everest as “non-guided because our leader and sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move, and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unassisted.” In 2005, a successful member of AP expedition was Jake Meyer, the youngest living British person to reach the summit of Everest at the age of 21.
Among the team’s members is 31 year old Scott McNaughton, whose appetite for climbing was boosted during a two year stint in New Zealand. He has previous ascents in the Alps, as well as Island and Mera peak. His most recent ascent was on Aconcagua, which he summited on December 31st, 2005.
Adventure Peaks' website:www.adventurepeaks.com
Scott on Everest’s website:www.scott-on-everest.co.uk
Everest Peace Project
Lance Trumbull is responsible for putting together this group of mountain climbers whose faiths and cultures span the globe. In addition to Lance (Bhuddist from US) members are: Palestinian Ali Bushnaq (Muslim), Israelis Micha Yaniv and Dudu “David” Yifrah (Jewish), Indian Gautam Patil (Hindu), US Tonya Riggs and 72 year old Jerry Price (both Christians), South African Selebelo Selamolela (Christian) and co-leader and climbing director New Zealander Jamie McGuinness (Atheist).
The team is departing on April 4, and will climb Everest via the North Col route, as part of Jamie’s Project Himalaya.
Project Himalaya - DCXP
Jamie McGuiness and Duncan Chessell have joined forces again to organize a fully supplied, guided expedition on Everest’s North side. The guide is Scott Woolums (Adventures International); this season Jamie is climbing director for the nearby Everest Peace Project, an international team with well over half the climbers having been on Everest before or having previously been on two 8000+m peaks. Full sherpa support.
The team will walk up the Khumbu valley to Everest South Side’s BC. They will then return to Kathmandu and drive to Tibet to climb via the North Col route.
S. Woolums Adventures International's website:www.exploreyourplanet.com
Members Bill Driggs and Anne Parmenter's reports at:www.aerogel.com
7 Summit / 7 Summits Club
Russian Alex Abramov, is once again joining forces with Dutch Harry Kikstra – together they are assembling one of the largest Everest teams of the last few years: A total of 30 clients catered to by a staff of 43 people. All of them are aiming for the summit of Everest via the North Col route beginning April 1, 2006.
Abramov offers a full service trip, but requests his clients be self-sufficient and well trained. Harry Kikstra will climb as a guide for one of his clients: Thomas Weber. Thomas suffers from a sight problem which becomes more acute with altitude. The team has also set up a full-service North Col Base camp with kitchen-tent, dining-tent, cook, kitchen-boy, radio station, electricity, and 2 web-cameras in BC and ABC.
Abramov team includes BC doctor Andrey Selivanov as well as some first-class climbers as guides: Nikolay Cherny (Everest and 6 other 8000ers), Igor Svergun (Everest and 5 other 8000ers summited) and Mingma Gelu Sherpa (5 time Everest Summiteer) as Sirdar. Assistant Guides are Sergey Kofanov, Ludmila Korobeshko, Maxim Onipchenko (mountain ranger, BC manager), and Sergey Chistyakov (internet project manager).
Climbers aiming for the summit include Russians Vladimir Lande, Ilya Rozhkov, Arkadiy Ryzhenko, Igor Plyushkin, and Vladimir Pushkarev; British Lorenzo Gariano, Noel Richmond Hanna, and Kirk Wheatley UK; Americans David A. Lien, Ron Morrow, William Hazelton Tyler III, Slate Stern, and Vince Bousselaire ; South African Ronald Kevin Muhl; Danish Henrik Andre Olsen; German Thomas Weber (blind climber); Australians Richard Harris, Christopher Harris (15 years old Richard’s son, aiming to become the youngest 7-Summiter), Michael Charles Dillon, and Lincoln Ross Hall. Also within the climbing team are four Norwegian climbers which form a group of their own: World Wide Vikings. They are Petter Kragset, Tobjorn Orkelbog, Frode Hogset, and Johnny Brevik. Petter attempted Everest last year. A few team members will only climb as far as the North Col, while others will remain in BC.
Abramov's Expedition’s website:www.7summits-club.com
Harry Kikstra’s website:www.7summits.com
Thomas Weber’s expedition website:www.SightOnEverest.com
World Wide Viking’s website (Norwegian):wwv.no/everest
Jagged Globe North side expedition
Besides organizing the logistics for the British Army expedition on the West Ridge, UK-based outfitter Jagged Globe is also offering a guided Everest climb via the North Col route. As in 2005, David Hamilton would be the guide. However, it is not yet confirmed if JG will finally launch this expedition.
Eric Shipton 75th Anniversary Everest Expedition 2006
Eric Shipton’s younger son, John, is part of a guided team attempting Everest North Col route this spring. He is part of Russell Brice’s guided Himalayan Experience (HimEx) team.
Bahrainis for a first and speed record ascent
Adnan Alqassab and Faraj Al Qassimi hope to become the first Bahrainis to summit Mount Everest this spring from Tibet. The two men will also try to set a new world record for the fastest ascent up the mountain, according to the Gulf Daily Times. That means the climbers have a tough task ahead, particularly since they have no previous climbing experience.According to recent reports, Wahab Al Assomi has also joined the team.
Their expedition is scheduled to begin on April 12 and be completed by May 25, 2006.
Info on Gulf daily Times:www.gulf-daily-news.com
The Mountain Company
Roland Hunter is leading a team launched by th UK-based outfitter The MOuntain Company. The team is climbing from the North Col route.
Russell Brice’s expedition outfitting company will be on Everest’s North side once again this year. He’ll take off for Tibet by the end of March, and will remain on the mountain until June 8th. In addition to his own guided team, Russell Brice will be providing logistics support for other expeditions.
Dan Mazur is once again offering 'affordable' climbs on Everest this season, both on the South side and North side. According to SC's website, eight people have joined the North side "full-service" team. Mazur also provides independent climbers and teams with BC logistics. Expedition's coordinator is Jon Christian Otto. Among the clients are a number of charity climbers, probably connected to the "MountainFund" a donations website set up by Dan Mazur including partners such as Everestnews and Alpinist. The charity climbers include American Dr. Ken Stalter climbing for Chilhood Leukemia, and British (US resident) Myles G. Osborne raising funds for a hospice for terminally ill children.
Mazur’s SummitClimb website:summitclimb.com
Myles G. Osborne website:www.everest4kids.com
Dr. Ken Stalter's website:www.climbingtocurechildhoodleukemia.com
Malaysian Treverest expedition
Malaysian Ravichandran Tharumalingam is climbing Everest from Tibet this spring. He has already scaled several peaks in Malaysia, as well as Mera Peak, Island Peak, and Kala Pattar in Nepal. According to his website, he reportedly hopes to become be the first Malaysian solo (meaning individual) climber to summit Mount Everest from Tibet. He also hopes to raise funds to benefit various charity houses in Malaysia..
Everest South East Ridge - Nepal - 8848m
Mary and Daisy for new straight-up route, in Alpine styleEXPEDITION CANCELLED
Uncomfortable with camping, British Mary Woodbridge, 85 and her dog Daisy have chosen a shortcut to the Top. The team will climb a vertical, avalanche-prone wall to the left of the Khumbu Ice fall (you might recall the spot - an avalanche buried 60 tents there last year). Mary and Daisy will be entirely unsupported and use no oxygen. After her being turned down by both National Geographic and climbing magazines, ExWeb has offered Mary to step in as a sponsor. In collaboration with NASA, a pill will be fed to Mary and Daisy to monitor Mary's heart rate live online, an eyepiece will be snugly mounted under Mary's wig for transmissions, the lot powered by ExWeb's new ultralight solar panel mounted on Daisy's back. Wired magazine will podcast the effects of Global warming via Mary's walking stick. The truly stunning expedition starts April 1.
Polish-Russian Falvit 2006 expedition - without O2
Russian ace climber Yuri Ermachek will team up with a Polish eight-man team led by Boguslav Ogrodnik for a no O2 Everest climb. The team hoped to traverse to Tibet, but they didn’t obtain permit from Chinese Authorities.
The team also includes Darek Zaluski (Anna Czerwinska's partner on K2 last year), and Martyna Wojciechowska who, if not a seasoned climber, is definitely an adventurous lady - and cover girl in an issue of Polish Playboy magazine.
News on Yuri on RussianClimb:www.russianclimb.com
Expedition's website (Polish):www.mounteverest.pl
Martyna's website (Polish):www.martynawojciechowska.pl
Malaysia/Singapore Friendship expedition: Khoo Swee Chiow comeback – without O2
Singaporean adventurer Khoo Swee Chiow will be back on Everest again this spring. Khoo will accompany a Malaysian high company executive, Vincent Loh. After climbing Aconcagua earlier this year, Khoo will make a second attempt on Everest without oxygen (first attempt took place in 2004), while Loh will climb using O2.
Khoo Swee Chiow’s website:www.daretodream.com.sg
Paul & Fiona Adler
Australians Paul and Fiona Adler are attempting Everest from the South Col route – hoping to become one of the few married couples to reach the summit. The have hired one Sherpa and will be climbing under IMG’s “unguided” program. If Fiona succeeds in making the summit she will be the third Australian female to do so.
Fiona and Paul have previously climbed Khan Tengri (they were on the North side when an avalanche killed 11 people on the South side in August 2004), Aconcagua, Matterhorn, Kilimanjaro and other mountains in the European Alps, New Zealand and Nepal.
Paul & Fiona’s website:www.adlers.com.au
India BSF Everest expedition
A 14-member team belonging to India’s BSF (Border Security Forces) mountaineering team, that has scaled 29 peaks in 15 major expeditions, is going for Everest this spring via the South Col route. They expect to spend 65 days on the mountain and plan to establish five camps along the peak. The team includes leader S.C. Negi, the climbing team, 2 support members and two Medical Officers.
India’s BSF website:bsf.nic.in
Philippine Romeo Garduce
Romeo "Romi" Garduce hopes to become the first Philippine to summit Mt. Everest. A systems analyst in his 30’s, Garduce summited Cho Oyu in September 2005. On Jan 1, 2005, he became the first Philippine to climb Aconcagua. Now he will join an international team for Everest, and will follow Hillary’s route from the Nepali side of the mountain. Romi plans to acclimatize on a lower peak in the Khumbu area – fellow Philippine Jon Villareal will join him on the acclimatization peak.
Expedition’s website: www.gmanews.tv/everest
Romeo Garduce’s blog: www.gmanews.tv/everest/blog/
First Philippines Mt. Everest Expedition
Two climbers belonging to the First Philippine Mt. Everest Expedition (FPMEE), planned for 2007, are set to ascend Mt. Everest this May as a reconnaissance party. It is not clear though if the ‘reconnaissance’ will be limited to the lower slopes of Everest, or they could go for the top. Leo Oracion and Erwin 'Pastor' Emata have been in Nepal since February to train and acclimatize. They will perform the reconnaissance trip in order to lead the full team of 16 climbers next year. Since Romeo Garduce is climbing from the north side, the first Philipine Everest summit is at stake this year. Other members of the antional team will be supporting the pair in BC.
Spanish “Mallorca a dalt de tot” – take two
After a failed attempt on Everest last year, Mallorca expedition team members promised they would be back – and they meant it. Juan Antonio Olivieri, Tolo Calafat, and Tolo Quetglas will depart for Everest April 1.
Expedition’s website (Mallorca Catalan):www.mallorcaadaltdetot.com
Alpine Ascents International
The American outfitter AA is organizing another expedition on Everest this year via the South Col route. This is a fully supplied, guided expedition.Leader is Vern Tejas.
Jagged Globe Everest South side
“Statistically, climbers attempting Everest via this route have a higher chance of success, due mainly to them having to spend less time above 8,000m, compared to the North Ridge,” Jagged Globe staff said. Kenton Cool will be the team leader. Organizers claim this is a fully supplied but not guided expedition, and ask their team-members to be self-sufficient.
The New Zealand-based outfitter is back for another shot at Everest this year. Their team was forced to turn back short of the summit in 2005. AC team will climb fully-supplied via the South Col route. AC is launching two guided teams: A large main team led by Guy Cotter, Victor Saunders and Dean Staples, and a smaller Canadian group led by Luis Benitez and Steve Moffat
IMG (International Mountain guides)
Eric Simonson is organizing another Everest expedition this spring. A climbing team led by Mark Tucker will attempt the peak from the South Col route. This is a fully suppliedcomprised of both guided and unguided climbers.
In 2005 MM’s guide Willie Benegas led his team to great success while achieving his 5th Everest summit. This year the American outfitter is putting a new team together. They will attempt the South Col route. This is a guided, fully supplied expedition.
American Outfitter Mountain Link is launching a fully supported 6 member expedition on Everest from the Nepali side. Team leader will be Robert Link, and sirdar Lhawang Dhondup.
Diabetic climber Will Cross – take three
American Will Cross, is a 38-year-old father of five and type 1 diabetic. Will is reportedly attempting Everest this spring – for the third time. Last year Cross turned round at the South Summit.
Cross’ Peaks and Poles website:www.peaksandpoles.com
No Limits American team
Leader is American Douglas Tumminello. His climbing permit has been issued for nine members - probably including other climbers progressing independently.
2006 Korea Chung Dong Anniversary
Jan Seop Shin is leading six other climbers on Everest's South side this spring.
Korean Dream Everest expedition
Soon Kwang Hwang is the leader of this 9-men strong team on Everest's South side.
South African Everest expedition
Sean Disney, Vaughan de la Harpe and René Hochreiter are attempting Everest from the South Col route. Both Sean and Vaughan hope to finish the 7 Summit quest with Everest. Sean has previously attempted Everest twice.
Ice 8000: Mark Squirrel, Andreis Botha, etc.
Australian Mark Squirrel, security officer for the UN Wold Food Programme Nepal is climbing Everest and promoting charity issues through his expedition. MArk has reported on the following climbers also being part of his team:Serena Brocklebank, Mike Brennan, Andries Botha, Raj Joshi, Tim (no surname mentionded), Tom and Ben Clowes, Michael Ferrer and Adrian Hayes. Also in the team was another member, first name Graeme, who has been evacuated with back injuries.
Andries Botha is a Canadian citicen of South African origin who hopes to become the oldes Canadian Everest summiteer. He is 54 years old.
Serena Brocklebank will be following in the footsteps of her grandfather, Tom Brocklebank, who was a member of the British expedition to the north side of Everest in 1933.
This team might be climbing under Henry Todd's permit.
Mark’s expedition website:www.fighthunger.org/everest
Dr. Botha's website:www.drbothaextremeadventures.com
Henry Todd's climbing permit for Everest's South side has been issued for eight climbers.
Dirk Stephan'S second attempt
German Dirk Stephan attempted Everest last year with his British mate Keith Woodhouse. They were forced to abort the expedition at C2 due to serious health problems. This spring Stephan will attempt the Everest again via the South Col this spring.
Kari Kobler's Swiss expedition
Swiss guide Kari Kobler, who led a successful guided team on K2 in 2004, and led a team on Everest's north side last year, is climbing the mountain's South side this spring. His climbing permit has been issud for eight members.
Expedition’s website (German):www.kobler-partner.ch
British teens Rob and James for Everest
In the spring of 2006, Rob Gauntlett and James Hooper plan to become the youngest Britons to climb Mount Everest (8850m), a record that was last broken by 21 year old Jake Meyer in June 2005. They will be 18 or 19 depending on the ascent day since Rob's birthday falls May 10.
The guys have previously summited Ama Dablam as training for Everest. They have also been climbing in Scotland and the Alps. They've joined UK-based outfitter Adventure Peaks team.
SummitClimb Everest Nepal
Dan Mazur's outfitter is launching a climb on Everest's South side - six members have signed up. At the request of clients, Mazur offers logistics support up to BC, or a ‘full-service’ expedition.
South Korean Han Wang-Yong South Col cleaning expedition
The 11th person to climb the 14 8000ers on earth, South Korean Han Wang-Yong, launched a campaign in 2003 to clean up the base area of Everest, Manaslu, K2, Dhaulagiri, and Annapurna. Han is on his way back to Everest this spring – this time to clean the upper half of the peak, on its Nepali side (from BC to C4 at the South Col). Han will lead an international team in an attempt to bring down up to 5 tons of trash, focusing on oxygen bottles and plastic wraps, but also bodies if possible.
Kangchenjunga – Nepal - 8586m
Ralf Dujmovits & Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner + Andrew Lock
Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (ExWeb’s #1 in 2005) is teaming up again this year with her climbing (and real-life) partner Ralf Dujmovits, for an attempt on Kangchenjunga. “We want to give Kangchenjunga another try,” said Ralf, who first attempted the mountain with Gerlinde in 2003. Back then, the team was forced to retreat when a major storm struck the mountain’s North side during their summit bid. The pair hopes the South side will bring them better luck. Their plan is to acclimatize on a nearby peak, and then launch a single push, alpine style on Kangchenjunga.
Joining them will be two other veterans from the 2003 attempt: Regular climbing mate Japanese Hirotaka Takeuchi and Finnish Veikka Gustafsson.
Ralf’s Amical website (German):www.amical.de
Andrew Lock + Portuguese João García and Antonio Coelho
Sharing a permit with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits, but climbing independently, Australian Andrew Lock will also attempt Kangchenjunga from the South side. Andrew is teaming up with Portuguese climbers João García and Antonio Jose dos Santos Coelho.
Joao’s expedition blog (Portuguese):sic.sapo.pt/online/blogs/joaogarcia
Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo for his 12th 8000er
After being rejected from Dhaulagiri in spring 2005, and having succeeded on Nanga Parbat months later, Ivan Vallejo hopes to proceed with his 14 8000ers quest this year, beginning with a tough one: Kangchenjunga.
TEaming up with Ivan will be Colombian Fernando González Rubio. "We summited Nanga Parbat together last summer," Ivan said. The team will hire one high altitude Sherpa, but Ivan won’t use supplementary O2.
Ivan’s website (Spanish):www.ivanvallejo.com
Spanish Yalung Kang expedition - Oiarzabal's return
Spaniard Juan Oiarzabal, who currently holds the record for the most 8000+ meter summits (21 to be exact) is back following a two year hiatus. Despite not being fully recovered from amputations he suffered in 2004 after summiting K2, Oiarzabal will team up with Juan Vallejo, Josu Bereciartua, Mikel Zabalza and Ferrán Latorre for an attempt on the difficult Yalung Kang, the western point of Kangchenjunga. A few team members have suggested a possible traverse of all Kangchenjunga’s points; however, conditions will ultimately dictate their plans.
Norbert Joos international expedition
Swiss mountain guide Nortbert Joos is launching a commercial team (not guided) on Kangchenjunga. He also led an expedition last year, but bad weather prevented the climbers from ultimately launching a summit bid. Details on the 2006 expedition have yet to be confirmed.
Norbert Joos’s website (German):www.bergsport.ch
Lhotse – Nepal - 8501m
Simone Moro for a new route on the West face
This spring, Simone is coming back for Lhotse, a peak he already summited in 1997. The goal is a new variation or a new route entirely on the West face - where the classic route is also located. Simone won’t use supplementary O2 or altitude porters. In fact, he will show up in BC alone. If conditions are good, Simone will climb the Lhotse wall following a new line from Everest/Lhotse C2 (6300m). Simone is sharing BC with the Polish Falvit Everest team.
January last year, Simone Moro summited Shisha Pangma after a fast 5 hour summit push in very strong winds. It was the first calendar winter ascent on a 8000er since 1988, and the first winter climb on Shisha Pangma. The climb was awarded among the Best of ExplorersWeb 2005.
Simone’s website (multilingual):www.simonemoro.com
Italian Lhotse expedition
Mario Merelli is leading an Italian team on Lhotse this spring. The Italians will climb from Everest’s South Col. Silvio Mondinelli will join them after his own bid on Shisha Pangma. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits may also join the group– if she’s still in time after climbing Kangchenjunga.
Mario’s website (Italian):www.mariomerelli.it
Chilean Lhotse expedition: Claudio back after 20 years
Veteran mountain guide Claudio Lucero is back to the Himalayas 20 years after his last expedition. Accompanying him are some friends and former pupils to whom Claudio once taught basic climbing skills; they are now seasoned mountaineers. The ten-member team is lead by Rodrigo Jordan. Their goal is Lhotse. If successful, Claudio would become the oldest Lhotse summiteer at 73 years of age.
Expedition’s website (Spanish):www.vertical.cl/lhotse
Norwegian Lhotse Expedition 2006
A Norwegian team will fly to Nepal on April 5 with their sights set on Lhotse. Expedition members are: Hilde Alnaes, Erik Finne Oppegaard, and Sven Gangdal.
According to the team, Sven has already summited four 8000ers. Hilde and Erik are facing their first climbing experience above 8000meters. The team will count on Dawa Chiri Sherpa as high altitude Sherpa: “We regard him as an equal member of the expedition,” the team stated.
Before reaching BC, the Norwegians will climb Island Peak as an acclimatization trip.
Sven Gangdal’s website (Norwegian / English):www.svengangdal.com
Czech Lhotse expedition
On Thursday, April 6, Pavel Kalny and Martin Minarik are leaving for Kathmandu - Lhotse is the goal. “According to our agent in Kathmandu, we are sharing permit with the expedition from Norway,” reported Martin.
Spaniard Jesus Calleja, who summited Everest last year, is attempting Lhotse this spring. He stands as the leader of an international, 12-men strong team. However, the team is surely comprised of smaller, independent groups.
Um Hong Gil for Lhotse Shar
Korean Um Hong Gil, 14 8000ers summiteer, is leading a 7 member team on the difficult Lhotse Shar (8,400m).
Turkish Tunc Findic for Lhotse
After training for some weeks in Chamonix, French Alps, Turkish climber Tunc Findic will attempt Lhotse this spring.
Tunc’s website (Turkish):www. tuncfindik.com
Henry Todd's climbing permit for Lhotse has been issued for 12 climbers.
Makalu – Nepal - 8485m
Italian Makalu expedition
Italians Mario Panzeri, Daniele Bernasconi, and Daniele Nardi are climbing Makalu this spring from its classic, NE side route - the very same line where French Jean-Christophe Lafaille was doing a solo winter climb and ultimately disappeared in January of this year.
Panzeri (5 8000ers summited) and Bernasconi summited Annapurna in 2005.
Expedition’s website (Italian) in:www.leradeau.it
Nardi's reports on MountainFreedom (Italian) in:www.mountainfreedom.it
Makalu – Nepal - 8485m
"Second" Italian Makalu expedition
A second Italian team is currently on Makalu. Leader is Mario Vielmo.
Polish Makalu Entre.Pl Xpedition
Polish Anna Czerwinska and Jerzy Natkanski are climbing Makalu in spring 2006. The pair will start the expedition by acclimatizing up the Khumbu Valley until Everest BC. Then they’ll fly from Lukla, all the way to Makalu’s BC.
Expedition’s website (Polish):www.makalu.entre.pl
Valeri Babanov for a new route on Chomo Lonzo
After his plans to guide clients on Everest were delayed, double Piolet d’Or winner Valeri Babanov has quickly figured out a cool climbing challenge for the current spring season: To solo a new route on the West face of Chomo Lonzo’s Main summit (7790m). Valeri will climb light on the yet-unclimbed wall.
Babanov’s website (Russian / English):www.babanov.com
Manaslu – Nepal - 8163m
Spanish West Face expedition
Carlos Pauner hoped to lead a team on Manaslu this spring and attempt a new route on the difficult West face. However, he was not been able to find enough team mates for such a complicated climb.
Carlos will instead go to Dhaulagiri, along with Raquel Perez, Willie Barbier, Nacho Orviz and Ricardo Valencia.
Carlos Pauner’s website (Spanish):www.carlospauner.com
Pete Guggemos International team: Urubko + Samoilov, Ochoa + Egocheaga, Bogomolov, Tortladze, Colibasanu
German Pete Guggemos has put together an international team for Manaslu. Members are sharing a permit. Part of the team will climb the normal route (NE side), whilst some others will attempt a new line on the mountain.
In addition to Peter, team members include Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov – Piolet d’Or nominees for the new route they opened on Broad Peak’s SW face last year; Russian Serguey Bogomolov; Georgian Gia Tortladze; Romanian Horia Colibasanu; and Spaniards Iñaki Ochoa and Jorge Egocheaga. Iñaki has summited 9 8000ers thus far. He is now focused on completing all 14 8000ers and will be heading to Dhaulagiri where he will join Nives Meroi’s Italian team.
Iñaki’s website (Spanish):www.navarra8000.com
News on Kazakh and Russian tea-members on RussianClimb:www.russianclimb.com
Japanese Cleaning expedition
A Japanese team led by Ken Noguchi is celebrating the 50th anniversary of Manaslu's first ascent by cleaning the mountain.
German Adventure Train Manaslu expedition
Steffen Kiefer is leading a German team on Manaslu this spring. Other members are his brother Peter, Veit Richter, Wolfgang Shoene, and Heiko Weist.
Expedition's website (German):manaslu.adventuretrain.de
Dhaulagiri – Nepal - 8167m
Nives Meroi & Co. Italian expedition
Italian ace climber Nives Meroi (six 8000er summited), husband Romano Benet, and regular climbing mate Luca Vuerich, will attempt Dhaulagiri for the second time this spring. The team’s real goal, however, goes beyond Dhaulagiri. Their plan is to acclimatize on the peak and then attempt Annapurna before monsoon season. Meroi and team have some pretty cool summer plans too: K2 from the South side.
Fabio Agostinis and Mario Cedolin are also joining the trio for their triple-header this year. The team will climb without supplementary O2 or high altitude porters on any of the three peaks.
Nives’ website (Italian):www.nives.alpinizem.net
Spanish Dhaulagiri Palencia Expedition
Team leader is Vicente ‘Tente’ Lagunilla. Tente has been a regular climbing-mate of veteran Carlos Soria; he has previously summited Everest and K2. Tente will be climbing with younger team-mates Juan Manuel García Crespo, David Villegas Antolín, Angel Villar and Mercedes Alba Oliva. The team will climb the normal route on the peak’s NE side.
Expedition’ website (Spanish):www.arasdelcielo.com
From Madrid to Dhaulagiri - Carlos Soria, 66
Veteran climber Carlos Soria, 66, will attempt Dhaulagiri by its normal route this spring. Although forming a separate expedition, he will in fact climb along with the Palencia expedition team. Carlos plans to depart for Dhaulagiri in April.
Colombian Camilo López, who met Carlos previously on K2 in 2004, is also in the team.
Spanish Dhaulagiri expedition – Carlos Pauner’s Plan B
After being forced to cancel plans for Manaslu due to lack of other team members, Carlos Pauner will attempt Dhaulagiri along with Raquel Perez, Willie Barbier, Nacho Orviz and Ricardo Valencia. They’ll go for the normal route.
Carlos’ website (Spanish):www.carlospauner.com
Iranian Dhaulagiri expedition
Two Iranians are heading for Dhaulagiri this spring. Mehdi Etemadfar and AmirHussain Jaber-Ansari are leaving Tehran for Kathmandu on Monday, April 3, 2006. This is the first attempt by Iranian climbers on Dhaulagiri.
News on Iran's Climbing Federation website :http://www.mountainzone.ir
Dutch Dhaulagiri expedition
Dutch climbers Katja Staartjes and Henk Wesselius are climbing Dhaulagiri this season. They will attempt the peak with the help of two climbing Sherpas: Dachhamba and Pem Tenji.
Expedition's website (Dutch):http://www.dhaulagiri2006.nl
Kazakh young guns for Dhaulagiri + Annapurna
Maxut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov - two of the best climbers on Kazakhstan National climbing team - are back to the Himalayas. Together, they are ready to summit Dhaulagiri and Annapurna this spring. Although details are still sketchy, the pair hopes to summit both peaks in light style.
Should they succeed, the two regular climbing mates would end the season with 10 8000+meters peaks summited.
Info on the expedition on:www.russianclimb.com
Amical Dhaulagiri expedition
The German outfitter is launching a guided expedition on Dhaulagiri in spring, 2006. Guides will be Herbert Wolf & Hajo Netzer. The team will reach BC via the French Col, and set 3 higher camps on the way to the summit. The team will also be hiring two high-altitude porters.
The organizers expect to put together a large team, up to 12 members. They will set off for Kathmandu on April 13th, and remain in BC for 26 days. Return date is planned for May 28.
Amical’s website (German):www.amical.de
Annapurna – Nepal – 8091m
2006 mBank Himalayan Trilogy Expedition
Polish Piotr Pustelnik (12 8000ers summited) is leading fellow Polish Piotr Morawski and Americans Don Bowie and Peter Hamor on Cho Oyu where they will acclimatize before heading to Annapurna this spring. The team will climb the mountain from its scary East Ridge, following a line opened in 1988 by Artur Hajzer and Jerzy Kukuczka. Pustelnik and Bowie rescued Artur Hajzer when he broke his leg on the upper slopes of Broad Peak.
The same team will attempt a new route on the still unclimbed South ridge of Broad Peak this summer.
Nives Meroi & Co. Italian expedition
Italian ace climber Nives Meroi (six 8000er summited), husband Romano Benet, regular climbing mate Luca Vuerich, plus Fabio Agostinis and Mario Cedolin hope to attempt Annapurna immediately after summiting Dhaulagiri, which they are climbing this spring.
The team hopes to take advantage of the acclimatization acquired on Dhaula to launch a fast attempt on Annapurna, before the monsoon rains reach the area.
Nives' website (Italian):www.nives.alpinizem.net
Kazakh young guns for Dhaulagiri + Annapurna
Maxut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov - two of the best climbers on Kazakhstan National climbing team - hope to climb Annapurna on a fast attempt after climbing Dhaulagiri this spring.
Should they succeed, the two regular climbing mates would end the season with 10 8000+meters peaks summited.
Info on the expedition on:www.russianclimb.com
Cho Oyu – Tibet - 8188m
Friendship Beyond Borders: Trans-tibial amputee Nawang Sherpa
In 2000, mountain guide Nawang Sherpa lost his leg in a motorbike accident. Two years later, Ed Hommer's foundation, High Exposure came to the rescue. Ed got Nawang a new "climbing leg" and the two men set out to scale Everest together. The next year however, on September 23, 2003, a rock struck and killed Ed on Mount Rainier. American Tom McMillan took charge and helped the Nawang reach the summit in 2004.
This year, Friendship Beyond Borders Expedition has come together once more: Americans Tom McMillan and Pete Lardey will assist Nawang on Cho Oyu, in his quest to become the first trans-tibial amputee to summit two 8000ers. The team will also include climbing Sherpa Nima Gombu, now a 10 time Everest summiteer.
2006 mBank Himalayan Trilogy Expedition
Polish Piotr Pustelnik (12 8000ers summited) is leading fellow Polish Piotr Morawski and Americans Don Bowie and Peter Hamor on Cho Oyu via the normal Tibetan route. Once acclimatized, they will head for their main goal, Annapurna, where they will attempt the Hajzer- Kukuczka route.
Amical Cho Oyu spring expedition
The German outfitter offers Cho Oyu expeditions both in the spring and fall seasons. The teams will consist of 9 to 11 members. Guides will be Hans Hocke (pre-monsoon season) and Winni Kurzeder (post-monsoon). There will be one high-altitude porter for every five climbers.
In addition, Amical will not provide climbers with supplementary O2 (the expedition will take along a few bottles to BC for medicinal use though, as well as a gammow-bag). However, the organizers stated that 14 out of 16 expeditions to Cho Oyu launched by Amical since 1995 have been successful.
Amical’s website (German):www.amical.de
Project-Himalaya / DCXP
Duncan Chessell is managing this guided, spring expedition on Cho Oyu. Tarn Pilkington (DCXP staff guide) will lead a 6 to 8 member team up the mountain. The team will be sending live dispatches over Contact 3.0.
Austrian Cho Oyu expedition
Hubert Rieger is leading a small group to Cho Oyu (8201m) from its normal route. They are leaving Austria on April 18, hoping to reach ABC on April 28.
Rieger was co-leader with Gerfried Göschl last spring on Shisha Pangma. Hubert reached the central summit, whilst Gerfried proceed up to the main summit.
Besides Rieger, other Cho Oyu team members are: Austrian Leopold Schausberger (who summited Shisha Main in 1987), and Swiss Daniel Schrag.
Jagged Globe Cho Oyu spring
UK-based Jagged Globe offeres guided climbs on Cho Oyu's normal route (NW side) both in spring and fall seasons. Tashi Tenzing will be the guide for the spring team, beginning April 8, and through the last week of May.
Shisha Pangma – Nepal - 8027m
Silvio Mondinelli – Third time’s the charm
This spring 2006, Italian Silvio Mondinelli will be giving Shisha Pangma a third try. Along with three friends from his home land in Northern Italy, he will attempt a variation of the normal route up to the main summit, and ski down from the top. Mondinelli attempted Shisha years ago; he reached the Central summit in fall 2005.
After Shisha, Silvio will join Mario Merelli’s team on Lhotse.
Mondinelli’s website (Italian):www.gnaromondinelli.it
Norwegian Jarle Traa, who attempted Everest w/o supplementary O2 last year, is back to the Himalayas. His next goal is Shisha Pangma. Jarle will acclimatize up the Khumbu valley before moving to Tibet.
Jarle’s website (Norwegian):www.jarletraa.no
Cordoba 8000- Shisha Pangma 2006
Ricardo Guerrero, José Antonio Campos, Antonio Expósito, and José Baena will set off for Tibet this April. The team from Cordoba (Southern Spain) plans to climb Shisha Pangma this spring and GII in summer – all in preparation for an attempt at Everest in 2007.
Expedition’s website (Spanish):www.amigosdelmarathon.com/cordoba8000/weblog
4th Latvian Himalaya expedition
Atis Plakans, Kaspars Klapkalns, Liga Plakane, and Andris Malasevskisare attempting Shisha Pangma this spring. The team is using Asian Trekking Ltd. logistic services.
Expedition’s website (Latvian):www.raid.lv
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