Himalaya autumn 2006 expeditions
Updated: Sep 25, 2006
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes
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Everest North Face - Tibet 8848m
Spanish BBK Everest Hornbein Couloir Expedition
Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Ferran Latorre are climbing Everest w/o O2, alpine style, via the Hornbein Couloir on the mountain’s north face. Basque Alberto, who has already summited all 14 8000ers, is leading this small team, the only one this fall season on Everest’s northern side.
The last attempt to climb Everest in autumn via the Hornbein couloir was made in 2003 by Americans Stephen Koch and Jimmy Chin – Jimmy will return to Everest also this fall, but will climb from the South Col route.
Juan and Ferran attempted Kangchenjunga earlier this year. Alberto summited Shivling in summer via the normal route - bad conditions thwarted his original goal to climb from its north face.
Info on the expedition:www.bbk.es
Everest South East Ridge - Nepal - 8848m
Berg Adventures International Everest 2006EXPEDITION ONGOING
Veteran expedition leader Wally Berg has led many expeditions on Everest (and summited four times) but when the peak became a bit too crowded for him, Wally decided to lead Everest climbs during off-season only. His small, mostly American crew will meet a mountain very different from a few months back.
Teaming up with Wally are Dave Hahn (seven Everest summits), Kit DesLauriers (World free skiing champion and mountain rescuer), Kit’s husband and also extreme skier Rob, photographer Jimmy Chin, Dr. Bryce Brown, and Michael Boni.
The team’s sirdar is Ang Temba Sherpa, while Leila Silveira will work as BC manager.
Shisha Pangma – Tibet - 8027m
Edurne Pasaban back to the mountains
Basque (Spanish) Edurne Pasaban is back to high mountain climbing after one year away from the Himalayas.
Edurne, with already 8 8000ers bagged, will attempt Shisha Pangma via its south face, climbing the British route in a team which also comprises Asier Izagirre, Luis Mari Pikabea, and Esther Sabadell.
Edurne's website (Spanish/Euskera):www.edurnepasaban.net
Joao Garcia for his 8th 8000er
After summiting Kangchenjunga in spring, Portuguese João Garcia is attempting Shisha Pangma. Garcia previously attempted Shisha in fall 2002, but his bid was thwarted by excess snow. Expecting similar conditions, João has opted for a late-season attempt. He will fly to Nepal by mid-September and climb Island peak with clients for acclimatization.
Then he will move to Shisha hoping to climb the mountain from its normal route in November. Accompanying him will be four fellow Portuguese climbers, all of them hoping to reach their first 8000+ meters summit.
News on Joao on Sapo.pt (Portuguese):sic.sapo.pt/online/blogs/joaogarcia
News on Joao on Millenium Bank's website (Portuguese):www.millenniumbcp.pt/joaogarcia
Tom Torkelson’s sky-ski expedition
American Tom Torkelson hopes to fulfill a long-time personal goal, according to his own words: To ski from the summit of an 8000m peak. The targeted summit is Shisha Pangma, which he hopes to reach by October 1. Conditions permitting, Tom will ski all the way back to BC.
Teaming up with Torkelson will be Mac Dean and Kevin Cullen from Montana, and Katharine Donan from Jackson Hole. Katharine might attempt a snowboard descent from the summit.
Torkelson attempted Nanga Parbat earlier this year, guiding a German client.
Tom’s Visionquest website: www.visionquestjourneys.com
Norwegian “To the top with Hamar”
Norwegians Aleksander Gamme and Stian Voldmo are climbing Shisha Pangma this fall season as a preparatory climb before attempting Everest next spring.
Expedition's website (Norwegian/English): www.hamartiltopps.no
JAC Tokai Section Shisha/Lhotse south face winter expedition
A Japanese team will climb Shisha Pangma from its normal route on the north side, as a preparatory climb before going for a very ambitious goal: The south face of Lhotse in winter.
Japanese Alpine Club (English version):www.jac.or.jp/english/jac_e.htm
Iñaki Ochoa for his 11th 8000er
Spaniard Iñaki Ochoa de Olza (39) will give Shisha Pangma another try this fall, via its north side’s normal route; he’ll be teaming up with American Tom Jem and sharing permit with Project-Himalaya team. Currently involved in summiting all 14 8000ers, Iñaki ticked off Manaslu, the 10th summit on his list earlier this year.
Ochoa reached Shisha’s central summit in 1995. Last year, he attempted the mountain twice: In March, avalanche risk forced him back on a solo attempt; in fall he hoped to climb the south face, but aborted his attempt due to health problems.
Iñaki's website (Spanish):www.navarra8000.com
Project-Himalaya Shisha Pangma expedition
Jamie McGuinness is leading this team on Shisha’s normal route. “I am hoping this expedition will be a case of fifth time lucky,” Jamie said. He has previously reached Shisha’s central summit four times.
Peru 8000 expedition
Ernesto Málaga, Jorge Gálvez, and Richard Hidalgo will attempt Shisha this fall. Málaga is returning to the peak after a previous attempt in 2000. Back then, a storm caught him 400 meters away from the summit. Despite turning back immediately, Ernesto would eventually lose some fingertips due to frostbite.
HiMex Shisha Pangma 2006
Russell Brice's outfitter has also a team on Shisha Pangma.
HiMex website: www.himex.com
Jagged Globe Shisha Pangma 2006
Lydia Bradey, from NZ, is guiding a team launched by UK-based Jagged Globe outfitter. The team will climb Shisha’s normal route.
In 1988 Lydia became the first woman to climb Everest without the use of supplementary oxygen. She has also summited G2 and Cho Oyu.
Lhotse – Nepal - 8501m
JAC Tokai Section Shisha/Lhotse South face Winter expedition
After climbing Shisha Pangma to acclimatize, this Japanese team will attempt Lhotse via its highly difficult south face. The climbers hope to step on its summit in winter – the climb may probably start before ‘calendar’ winter dates though.
A team from the JAC led by Osamu Tanabe attempted this same feat back in 2003. Tanabe could also be the leader of the current team.
Japanese Alpine Club (English version):www.jac.or.jp/english/jac_e.htm
Manaslu – Nepal - 8163m
French South Ridge expedition
A strong French team will attempt a first ascent on the South Ridge, in alpine style. Members are Piolet D’Or nominees Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff, and Patrick Wagnon, teaming up with Sandrine de Choudens (Spanish Jorge Egocheaga’s partner on Nanga and Broad Peak – both summited) and Danish Asmus.
News on the expedition on FFME (French):www.ffme.fr
Jean-Noël Urban's Sky-ski Manaslu expedition
French climber and extreme skier Jean-Noël Urban hopes to ski down the Japanese route on the West side. Urban has previously skied down from Shisha Pangma main, Cho Oyu and GII.
Urban's website (French/English):www.expeditions-urban.com/
Japanese Manaslu Expedition
Atsushi Yamamoto and Yoshinobu Kato are the leaders of a guided team from Japan, currently on Manaslu.
Dhaulagiri – Nepal - 8167m
Ivan Vallejo for his 13th 8000er
After a failed attempt last year, Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is back in Nepal hoping to win over Dhaulagiri on his second attempt. Focused on the 14x8000er project, Ivan summited Kangchenjunga this past spring. Should he succeed on Dhaula, the only 8000er peak left for Ivan to summit would be Annapurna.
Having found no team to join, Ivan will climb with a Sherpa, sharing permit with Czechs, Poles, and Russians. Previously, Ivan will acclimatize on Cho Oyu up to 7800m, in order to move then to Dhaula for a fast, alpine style push.
Ivan’s website (Spanish):www.ivanvallejo.com
Polish HiMountain Dhaulagiri expedition
Following a series of Himalayan summits accomplished by Polish female climbers this year (Martyna Wojciechowska on Everest, Anna Czerwinska on Makalu, Kinga Aranowska on Broad Peak, and Tamara Stys on GII), now it's Sylwia Bukowicka's turn.
Sylwia, 28, has already summited Cho Oyu and GII. She is currently on her way to Dhaulagiri as a member of HiMountain Polish Dhaulagiri expedition. Team leader is Ryszard Pawlowski, a three time Everest summiteer and participant in over 150 expeditions.Also climbing member is Grzegorz Murawicz.
The Poles will attempt Dhaula’s classic French route.
News on the team on HiMountain’s website (Polish/English):www.himountain.pl
Czech Dhaulagiri expedition
Czech climbers Radek Jaros, Kamil Bortel, and Roman Langr will attempt Dhaulagiri this fall season. They share climbing permit and BC with the Polish expedition.
Radek Jaros' website(Czech/English):www.radekjaros.cz
Kari Kobler & Partner Dhaulagiri expedition
Mischu Wirth is the leader of this guided team, planned for this fall season. The team will climb Dhaula’s classic Swiss route.
Russian Dhaulagiri expedition
Russians Valery Shamalo, and Alexey Gorbatenko will attempt Dhaulagiri this fall season. They share climbing permit and BC with the Polish expedition.
Annapurna – Nepal – 8091m
Blanc and Mondinelli back to Annapurna
One year after surviving a tragic serac fall which killed Christian Kuntner, Abele Blanc (also injured in that accident) and Silvio Mondinelli (who accompanied Christian in his last moments) are headed back to Annapurna. Silvio summited Shisha Pangma and Lhotse earlier this year – his 11th and 12th 8000ers. Anna is Abele’s last summit to complete his quest for the 14 Himalayan giants. Also on the team are Marco Camandona, Marco Confortola, Fabio Iachini, and Adriano Favre.
Mondinelli's website (Italian): www.gnaromondinelli.it
Cho Oyu – Tibet - 8188m
Camilo Lopez for an attempt on Free Tibet
Colombian climber Camilo Lopez is on his way to Cho Oyu’s BC. But Camilo hopes to leave the crowds behind soon, by attempting on his own Free Tibet, a route opened in 1996 by Spanish Oscar Cadiach and Austrian Sebastian Rucksteiner.
Camilo attempted Dhaulagiri in spring, also as an independent climber.
Tom Avery’s British/Australian Cho Oyu expedition
NP dog-sledger Tom Avery is climbing Cho Oyu this fall, hoping to ski all the way down from the summit. Also on the team are fellow British Kenton Cool, who has summited Everest in 2004, 2005 and 2006 as a guide with Jagged Globe, and 2005 Everest summiteer Nick Farr, from Australia.
Avery retraced the footsteps of Peary to the North Pole last year, as a member of a dog-sledging team led by Matty McNair.
Tom's live Cho Oyu dispatches:www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/avery2
FPMEE Philippine team: Back in the Himalayas
Members of the First Philippine Mt. Everest Expedition (FPMEE) will be attempting Cho Oyu from Tibet this autumn. The team includes Filipinos Regie Pablo, Fred Jamili, JB Anonuevo, and Choi Aquino, Team Physician Dr. Ted Esguerra and two of the team's women members, Karina Dayondon and Noelle Wenceslao. Karina successfully summited Island Peak in April last year, while Karina and Noelle successfully summited Mt. McKinley on June 23 this year.
This expedition is a training climb before the Unity Climb on Mt. Everest next year, where 2 teams will climb simultaneously from the North and South sides. The team succeeded last year in sending the first Filipinos to the summit of Everest: Leo Oracion and Pastour Emata summited on May 17 and 18 respectively.
Tom's live Cho Oyu dispatches:www.philippine-everest.com/index.html
Patagonian Brothers: Damian Benegas for Cho Oyu and Palung Ri
Fresh from an attempt on Karakorum's Latok 1, Damian Benegas is leading a team on Sho Oyu and Palung Ri.
Damian's live dispatches:www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/patbro1/
Dutch Cho Oyu expedition
This team attempting Cho Oyu from its normal route comprises the following members: Bram Vrolijk,Frank Berkhout, Peter Roos, Ronnie van den Broek, Willem Groeneveld, Dirkjan van Heumen, Tom Van Wesemael, and Berry van Welzen.
Expedition’s website (Dutch/English):www.chooyu2006.nl
Malaga Himalaya Cho Oyu 2006
Spaniards Javier Sanchez, Jose Lopez and Rafael Merchan are attmpting Shisha Pangma from the normal route this fall.
Expedition’s reports on Grupo Alpino Pinsapo's website (Spanish):www.grupoalpinopinsapo.es
Amical Cho Oyu post-monsoon 2006
The German outfitter is launching a second guided team on Cho Oyu this year (previously another team climbed the mountain in spring). The leader for this post-monsoon Cho Oyu expedition is Winni Kurzeder.
Amical does not provide the climbers with supplementary O2 for their summit bid.
Amical’s website (German):www.amical.de
Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu 2006
American Luis Benitez, 4 time Everest summiteer and 2 time Cho Oyu summiteer, is guiding the team. Assistant Guide is Paul Rogers from New Zealand; expedition’s sirdar is Ang Tshering Sherpa, and climbing sirdar is Chhuldim Sherpa. The team’s crew also comprises three high altitude Sherpas.
Expedition members are Aussies Jan Anderson and Scott Curtis, British Kevin Cubitt and Philip Varcas, and Belgian Sebastien Glorie.
Mountain Madness Cho Oyu 2006
Christine Boskoff is leading this guided, fully supplied team on Cho Oyu. Members are Mark Payne, Eric Dalzell, and Wolf Riehle. The team will climb the peak’s normal route on its Tibetan side.
Alpine Ascents International Cho Oyu 2006
Vern Tejas is guiding a team launched by US-based outfitter Alpine Ascents. Members are Mustafa Mahmoud from Jordan, Firat Eren from Turkey, Amy Beeton from the UK, and Americans Laura Ross, Kurt Gusinde, and Lawdon.
US-based outfitter International Mountain Guides has also launched a team on Cho Oyu this fall. Expedition leader is Mike Hamill; Ang Jangbu is the team’s sirdar. Climbing team members are: Peter Vaream, Martin Johnson, Agnes Sauvage, Carlos Vallejo, William Considine, James Patterson, Nicole Messner, Steve Bridges, William Borland, Philip Desjardins, Gary Kellund, and James Harter.
Polish Cho Oyu expedition
A Polish team is attempting Cho Oyu this fall. Members are zbigniew Lukasik, Leszek Kopczynski, Adrzej Platowski, Zbigniew Kawalek, Arkadiusz Grzadziel, Krzysztof Apanasewicz, Piotr Dudek, Irek Wolanin, Gregorz Siemieniec, Krzysztof Hudek, and Szymon Naludka.
Expedition’s website (Polish):www.cho-oyu.pl
Romanian Cho Oyu expedition
Romanians Alexandru Gavan and Sergiu Matei are climbing Cho Oyu this fall, hoping to summit their first 8000er.
Kari Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu expedition
Reiner Taglinger is the leader of this guided team on Cho Oyu, launched by Swiss expedition outfitter Kari Kobler.
Expedition’s website (German):www.kobler-partner.ch
SummitClimb Cho Oyu 2006
American Dan Mazur is launching a commercial team on Cho Oyu this fall. Team leaders will be British-American Phil Crampton, Dutch Arnold Coster, accompanied by Australian Philip Ling as a trainee.
Members are French Philippe Caboche and Alain Denamiel; Brits Martin Holton, Lee Farmer, Stephen Lawes, and Stephen Marsh; Finnish Samuli Mansikka and Jere Pettersson; and Americans Thomas Sexton and Jason Marsh.
Russell Brice's outfitter offers Cho Oyu expeditions every fall season.
Henry Todd's outfitter has launched a commercial expedition on Cho Oyu. Team members are Bo Parfet, Blyth Wright and Ward Supplee. Ice8000 is also doing the logistics for Victor Saunders and Kenton Kool, as well as for Tim Mosedale.
Tim Mosedale's team
A rock climbing instructor based in Keswick, Lake District,and also an Everest summiteer, Tim Mosedale has launched a commerical team for Cho Oyu. Logistics are managed by Todd's Ice8000.
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