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Autumn 2003 expeditions

Updated: September 15,  2003

  Expedition Archive

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Everest North Ridge - Tibet 8848m

American Snowboard expedition -  

Stephen is on the final leg of his quest to snowboard each of the "7 Summits".  Everest is the final mountain and this expedition plans to end with a bang.  The hope is to complete the first successful descent of the steep, narrow, and very direct Hornbein couloir.  This is the same line that took the life of snowboarder Marco Siffredi, just a year ago.

Expedition members: Stephen Koch, Jimmy Chin, and Eric Henderson (Base Camp Manager)


Everest South East Ridge - Nepal - 8848m

Berg Adventures International -   

Four-time Everest summiter Wally Berg will be leading a commercial expedition up the traditional South Col route.  One of the climbers on the team, Maegan Carney, will be attempting to become the first woman to ski from the summit. 

Expedition Members:  Wally Berg, David Burger, Maegan Carney, Brad Johnson, Garry Porter, Ang Temba Sherpa (Sirdar), Leila Silveira (Support Manager), and Dennis Comfort (Communications)



Kangchenjunga - Nepal - 8586m

Catalan UES Kangchenjunga South Side expedition -   

A five member Catalan team will be attempting to climb Kangchenjunga from the South side.  Climbers from the UES team have previously summited Manaslu in 1999 and Gasherbrum II in 2001.

Expedition Members:  Emili Marquilles, Antonio Montalbán de la Torre, Josep Noguera Pous, Antoni Oriol i Canas, and Roger Sellent Cirera.

http://www.expes-ues.el.ub.es (in Catalan)

Romanian Kangchenjunga North Side expedition

Nuptse East - Nepal - 7855m

Three times a charm for Babanov? -   

If at first you don't succeed, try and try again.  This will be Babanov's third expedition to the elusive Nuptse East Pillar.  It is the highest known unclimbed peak.  Last fall he came with his wife to BC and climbed solo - an expiring permit and poor weather turned him around.  Then this past spring he brought with him Vladimir Suviga and the duo came within 400m of the summit before weather again threw a knot in things.  Now, back again for the third time, Babanov will be climbing with Yury Koshelenko.

http://www.Babanov.com (Russian)
Cho Oyu - Tibet - 8188m

Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu -  

Mike Roberts and Dean Staples will be leading for AC on Cho Oyu this fall.  


Amical Alpin Cho Oyu

Ralf Dujmovit's outfit is guiding a small expedition on Cho Oyu this fall.  Marcel Kraz, who has successfully guided on GII in 2000 will be the expedition leader.

http://www.amical.de (German)

Alpine Ascents -

American commercial outfit, Alpine Ascents, will be leading four clients on Cho Oyu.

Expedition members:  Andy Tyson, Eric Larson, Perry Solmonson, Dan Buck, Holt Hunter, Matt McDonald, Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, Tshering Sherpa (cook), Gopal (cook)


Ciudad de Huesca Cho Oyu -  

Climbers from the Pena Guara club in Huesca Spain are going for Cho Oyu.
Expedition members: Joaquin Araguas, Jose Valdivia 'Pepin', Fernando Peralta, Teodoro Palacin, Cesar Gracia, and Candido Puyal.

http://www.p-guara.com/ochomil/chooyu.htm (Spanish)

Earth Treks Cho Oyu -  - CANCELLED 

Two of the Earth Treks crew will be attempting Cho Oyu this fall.  Adrian Ballinger is Earth Trek's Mountaineering Program Director and has been with the outfit for seven years. Along with him will be Nelson Laur, who is director of the Outdoor Climbing School at Earth Treks. 

Expedition members: Adrian Ballinger and Nelson Laur 


Juanito Oiarzabal Cho Oyu

Juanito Oiarzabal, the 6th person to summit all 14, 8000ers and recent GI summiter is off for Cho Oyu this fall.  Should he make it, Juanito will tie Ang Rita's current record of 19, 8000er summiter.  At the top of GI this past summer he tied up with Messner on his 18th summit.

http://www.juanitooiarzabal.com (Spanish)  

International Mountain Guides -

IMG will be leading a large team on Cho Oyu this autumn:

Expedition member: Chris Booher (Co-leader), Mike Hamill (Co-leader), Garrett Madison (Asst. guide), Justin Merle (Asst. guide), Bill Burd, Nancy Norris, Tamara Darnow, Peter Ford, James Harter, Ignacio Piedra, Ken Goodwin, Mark Weinberg, Lanta Olito, Josef Stanzl, Adam Christopherson, and Lindon Seed.

Sherpa Team: Ang Jangbu Sherpa (Co-leader/Sirdar), Panuru Sherpa, Phu Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Ongel Sherpa, Ang Passang Sherpa, Da Nuru Sherpa, Karma Rita Sherpa, Pemba Tshiri Sherpa (Head cook), Kaji Sherpa (Asst cook). 


Himex Cho Oyu -

Russell Brice's commercial outfit will be guiding a big crew of international climbers on Cho Oyu.  

Expeditions members: Russell Brice (leader), Richard Mansfield (guide), Brian Tilley (guide), Makoto Otake, Darius Vaiciulis, Julian Haszard, David Hoile, Ian Wiper, Tom Souders, Robert Gambi, Joanne Gambi, Mogens Jensen, Maxime Chaya, Kevin Goldstien, Yachio Suzuki, Shinji Tamura, Hiroyuki Kuraoka, Shokichi Saito, Toshihiko Tamura, Kazumi Shirai, and Takenori Yoshida.


Jannu - Nepal - 7710m

Big Walls - Russian Routes -   

This mostly Russian crew has its sights set on 12 of the world's gnarliest big walls.  They've currently accomplished six of the twelve and will be going for Jannu's unclimbed wall.  For a warm-up, the team traveled to Tien Shan where they successfully summited Khan Tengri.

Climbers: Alexander Odintsov, Alexander Ruchkin, Mikhail Mikhailov, Nickolay Totmjanin, Alexey Bolotov, Mikhail Davy, Mikhail Pershin, High-altitude camera-man - Ivan Samoilenko, and Doctor - Mikhail Bakin.


Peak 38 - Nepal - 7591m

Czech Peak 38 ski expedition -   
(in Czech).

An 8 member Czech team will be attempting to climb and ski Peak 38, located just 6km or so from Everest.  6 members will be climbing and 2 will be their media support in Base Camp.  

http://peak38.mountainski.cz/ (Czech)

Shisha Pangma - Tibet - 8027m

Gnaro Mondinelli and friends -   -
will be up in early Sept.

Gnaro and Mario Merelli will pair up again along with a small group of Italian friends to go for Shisha Pangma this fall season.  Gnaro and Mario climbed together and summited Kangchenjunga this past spring.  Gnaro has previously climbed on Shisha Pangma, but only reached its Central peak.

http://www.gnaromondinelli.it (Italian)

Project Himalaya

Jamie McGuinness will be leading a group on Shisha Pangma this Fall.  Jamie just recently summited Everest this past Spring on May 31st, equaling the latest pre-monsoon season Everest summit. 


Himex Shisha Pangma

Russell Brice's outfit will be running a second expedition this fall on Shisha Pangma. 



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