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Part II of III - Group dynamics, private and guided
It is necessary to separate Ralf’s climbing philosophies, into two categories, guiding and personal. Take group dynamics for instance. With a commercial expedition it’s, “really important to have a guide with a strong personality that can lead the group and its dynamics,” there is a clear leader that dictates all aspects of the climb. “The clients should see that the guides are experienced and responsible – this reassures them.” Personal understanding On private expeditions, it might not be as important to have a one leader per say, but a group of individuals that can work well together and are experienced enough to contribute in their own way. Most important is, “a good personal understanding.” This was instrumental in the formation of the Kangchenjunga team, which includes Jean Christophe Lafaille and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. Cho Oyu three times is not for my own fun Despite the differences in dynamics and conduct, guiding successes can often be as rewarding as personal climbing achievements. While guiding on K2 in ’94, Ralf fixed ropes up to 8,350m himself – quite a burly achievement. Sometimes though, guiding success does not come from the challenge of the mountain itself, but the challenge of managing the expedition. In 1998 he led a group up Cho Oyu and everything went as smoothly as could be, “It was a good feeling.” By no means a crowning achievement of physical exertion or mental toughness, nonetheless, in an environment when it is almost expected for something to go wrong, having everything go right can be as precious as the summit of K2 – almost. As far as the pure climbing enjoyment involved in guiding, “climbing Cho Oyu three times is not for my own fun,” Ralf says with a chuckle. Part III tomorrow - When a client does not make the summit, who is responsible? |