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Thanks for the ride Tomaz, and please say hi
10:17 pm CST Nov 15, 2009
In the relatively short time that ExplorersWeb has been around, we have lost too many great climbers, and friends.
Tomaz Humar was one of the very first we interviewed, on June 16 in 2003. The chat, now gone from our servers, was headlined Tomaz Humar, life in the fast lane.
Nanga and Anna
Tomaz was not always easy to deal with. Attempting a new route on the sheer Rupal face of Nanga Parbat, alone and in very bad conditions, he was rescued in a joint effort by a large number of good people. In the end, the Pakistan army literally lifted Tomaz off the mighty wall.
Not all were happy for him. He made poor choices, critics said, driven by media and fame. In 2007, his reply came: a secret solo of Annapurna. It was the coolest high altitude climb in Himalaya that fall, he kept a low profile, and shot over a neat debrief.
But the critics rallied again. Tomaz lied they said, and while a similar climb made by a team on the face some time back was dubbed "one of the greatest" that season - Tomaz instead was called "wimp" on climbing boards.
"Are certain climbers ganging up on Tomaz?" ExWeb asked, and checked the facts with veteran Annapurna south side mountaineers. They all agreed on two things: the climb was great and it was honest.
"Jagat, this is my last"
Tomaz Humar's amazing life came to an end on an unknown peak, in the company of local kitchen boy Jagat, on a climb very few knew about.
On the evening of November 9, Asian Trekking got word from BC that Tomaz had an accident at about 6300 meters on Langtan Lirung. A heli with four Nepalese Climbing Sherpas was dispatched the very next day. Jagat spoke with Tomaz for the final time that morning, at 10 am. "Jagat this is my last," Humar reportedly said.
An aerial search and a climb performed by the rescue Sherpas failed to locate Tomaz and the Sherpas returned to base camp on November 12. Air Zermatt Swiss rescue team arrived Kathmandu the next day. Early morning November 14 the Swiss flew with 2 helicopters to Langtang after briefing with Asian Trekking's crew.
Pilot Robert Andenmatten and rescue-climber Simon Anthamatten (member of Inaki's Annapurna rescue team and recent Jasemba summiteer) found Tomaz at 5600 meters on the south wall. Robert dropped Simon with a 25 meter static rope on the accident site. But it was too late. Tomaz had died, apparently after breaking his leg in a fall.
The better men
Piotr, Inaki, Pavle - why is it always the good ones, we ask. Why not a big avalanche sweeping all the cheaters and the bullies and the cowards, we whisper. Truly. Why these guys, that we have so few of.
All very different, they had one thing in common: they went their own way.
Piolet d'Or awards innovation, originality, and independence - that is if you obey a set of rules and peers. Tomaz Humar never got the axe for Annapurna. But he got Best of ExplorersWeb. Thanks for the wild ride buddy, and please say hi.
Related:
Tomaz Humar: European profile and word from Simone Moro
Editorial compiled by Tina Sjogren, editor and co-founder of ExplorersWeb.com.
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