Newsflash: Urubko and Dedeshko win Asian Piolet d'Or
03:00 pm CST Nov 06, 2009
(MountEverest.net) ExplorersWeb's Korea correspondent Kyu Dam Lee reports from the Seoul Garden Hotel today that Kazakh Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko won the 4th Piolet d’Or Asia for their climb of Cho Oyu's SE face in Alpine style.
Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama got the ‘Golden Climbing Shoes’ award, while further honors went to Young-Seung Park and Oh Eun-Sun for their contribution in mountaineering. Members of the jury included French profiles and Korean climber Hong-Gil Uhm.
For his last (14th) 8000er, Urubko originally planned a speed ascent on Cho Oyu's normal route. When Chinese politics closed the mountain, Denis decided to attempt Cho Oyu not from China - but from Nepal - via the South-East Face.
The face had never been climbed in alpine style before and the route was extremely serious. Denis and mate Borish Dedeshko departed on the single push on May 6th, carrying food and gas for one week. “I'm decided to fight ‘till the end, and Boris agrees with me,” Denis told RussianClimb back then, eventually bagging his final peak in true champion spirit.
Urubko's climbs are legendary; over only the past few years they have included new route on Manaslu; an unclimbed face of Broad Peak; and the latest K2 summit ever in the first K2 north side ascent in 11 years. Earlier this year Denis also bagged the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Denis Urubko is considered one of the top climbers today. He has now summited all 14 8000ers and many other major peaks in the Himalayas and Central Asia. He has also sacrificed summits to help climbers in trouble, some of whom he had never met before.
Cho Oyu SE face Expedition sponsors were: NewTech, Kazakhstan Kagazy, gear from Sivera, La Sportiva and CAMP.
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