04:30 am CDT Oct 14, 2009
(MountEverest.net) Pasaban's chance to equal Miss Oh is over; Edurne has called her expedition off.
Expected to launch a second summit push on Annapurna, Oh in turn has grabbed the media opportunity to empower fellow Korean women's independence.
And a heads-up on Cho Oyu’s real summit continues the battle for just records.
Shisha Pangma: Edurne, "We’re going home"
“In the end, I'm kind of stuck with Shisha," Pasaban said in September. With a fourth attempt now failed, Shisha Pangma has once again proved Edurne's doomed mountain. Already before the expedition, Edurne made clear: "After 11 years of Himalayan climbing, I won't push my luck at the end. It would be a major mistake. I’d rather end up second, third or whatever… as long as I live to complete the 14x8000ers.”
Sticking to her decision, “It’s over,” Edurne said in a radio interview earlier today. “Weather forecasts show no improvement in the short/middle term, and so it's no use to try and extend our climbing permit. We’re going home.”
Annapurna: Miss Oh, "Had I quit my job to climb mountains alone, I wouldn't have lasted long"
Biding her time on Annapurna, Oh Eun-Sun took time to reflect and write the following open letter to local media:
“I am sorry that I could not summit Annapurna on Korean Thanks Giving Day (Oct3rd) – it would have been a fine gift. Given the conditions on the mountain though, descending was the only right thing to do. Hopefully I’ll bring better news after a second push I'm planning for mid October, I’ll be better prepared then.”
“I’ve heard I’ve become a source of inspiration for many women in Korea. I'm flattered but also feel a new sense of responsibility. I’ve worked very hard to find the time and the funds to climb my mountains: I worked several jobs and set up a noodle-shop to make money, but I never complained, since my goal was clear and my will to get there was firm.”
“Dear sisters, follow your heart but keep your focus straight. Had I quit my job only to climb mountains, I wouldn't have lasted long. In my opinion, to realize one's true wishes it's important to stay independent – not only financially, but also mentally."
“Identify your dreams and follow them: Happiness lays right there. You will lose if you compare yourself to others. You will lose if you begin to worry about money, honor or whatever others may think. Remember that dreams and happiness come out of what you like to do – for yourself.”
“People tend to think that men are strong and women are weak, even more so in the world of mountaineering where men are in majority. But if you depend on someone else, you’ll be limited. Instead, do things by yourself. It doesn't matter what you choice is, to be a climber or a house wife, use your own skill and independence. Age and physical features are not a critical factor. Just go for your dreams.”
Makalu: Ueli Steck, “I fought as never before in my life"
Back in Switzerland, Ueli Steck's frostbites are slowly healing and the daily routine is setting in. "I badly need the rest,” the climber said, "Makalu challenged me to the very end.”
"Although I didn't reach the summit via the West Pillar as I had planned, the expedition was a great success. An ascent up the Pillar was simply impossible as conditions on the normal route were difficult enough.”
“I fought as never before in my life. In the end, it was simply a matter of mind: my reason said to stop the torture, but my will-power finally drove me to the summit.”
Cho Oyu: Everest-Lhotse prove real summit
After false summit claims stirred the climbing community on Shisha Pangma, time has come to highlight another “unclear” 8000er: Cho Oyu.
The peak's vast summit plateau often tempts climbers to stop at its edge; but that's where the actual crux begins as a long and exhausting march on 8000 meters to the summit about 500 meters away.
SummitClimb’s website provides the following description of Cho Oyu’s highest point, and how to know when you’re there:
"You climb through a few small-easy rock steps (4 meters high) and mixed snow at a 28-46 degree angle to the wide summit plateau, and make the long traverse to the little bump that marks the summit, at 8,201 meters/27,000 feet.”
“You know you are on the true summit when you see the inspiring views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, and the entire Khumbu valley, as well as great views across the Tibetan plateau to Shisha Pangma."
Story edited on Oct 19, 2009: Bruno Gremion has noted up a correction to SummitClimb's definition: "Actually Makalu cannot be seen from Cho Oyu summit, as it is hidden behind Lhotse," he explained. "To the left of Everest, we can see by clear weather the Kangchenjunga-Jannu massif far away (distance approx. 152km). Tho the right of Nuptse, the most dominant peaks are Baruntse and Chamlang, but not Makalu. It is possible that people who said they saw Makalu have either confused with Kangchenjunga - it can be clearly checked by comparing summit pics and Google Earth images."
"As for Cho Oyu's altitude, although some maps mention 8201m, other authoritative sources give an altitude of 8188m," Brunno added. "My own GPS reading was just in between."
Already in 2004, Jamie McGuinness set the ghost of Cho Oyu summit straight (find the full story in the links section). Meassuring the double summit bump with GPS (50 readings), Jamie told ExplorersWeb: "You can't quite see the Gokyo lakes, but the summit is obvious. Although climbers call it the summit plateau, it is on enough of an angle that there is no mistaking the real summit in good weather."
To prove that the highest point has been reached, Cho Oyu summit pictures therefore should show climbers with the Everest-Lhotse group in back.
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