Denis Urubko summits Cho Oyu via the SE face - becomes 14x8000er summiteer!
07:08 am CDT May 15, 2009
(MountEverest.net/Madrid) Kazakh Denis Urubko has summited Cho Oyu, his 14th 8000+ meter summit, after climbing the mountain's SE face in alpine style. He is already back in BC, according to RussianClimb.
The news has been published on RussianClimb (in the Russian version) further details are expected soon. It's yet unclear whether his climbing mate Borish Dedeshko reached the top as well.
Denis and Boris departed on an alpine style summit push up Cho Oyu's SE face on May 6th, carrying along food and gas for a week - but no sat-phone. Two days prior to departure, Denis had reckoned the planned route looked extremely serious but said, “I'm decided to fight ‘till the end – and Boris agrees with me.”
Urubko originally planned a speed ascent on Cho Oyu's normal route last spring. When Chinese politics closed the mountain the expedition was moved to last fall but proved an opportunity in disguise this spring: Denis decided to attempt Cho Oyu not from China - but from Nepal - via the South-East Face.
The face, which had never been climbed in alpine style before, was in Denis' mind since 2001. He had wanted to summit his last 8000er in such a special way.
Urubko's climbs are legendary; over only the past few years Denis and twice-divorced, ever-loyal climbing buddy Serguey planted new routes on Manaslu and an unclimbed face of Broad Peak. In 2007 the two made the latest K2 summit ever in the first K2 north side ascent in 11 years.
Denis also bagged his first winter ascent on an 8000er on February 9th this year. That day he summited Makalu together with Simone Moro.
Denis Urubko is considered one of the top climbers today. He has now summited all 14 8000ers and many other major peaks in the Himalayas and Central Asia. He has also sacrificed summits to help climbers in trouble, some of whom he had never met before.
Cho Oyu SE face Expedition sponsors: NewTech, Kazakhstan Kagazy, gear from Sivera, La Sportiva and CAMP.
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