Alex Abramov 2008 Everest no-go, "climbing a great mountain shouldn't involve shame and humiliation"
11:10 pm CDT Mar 17, 2008
(MountEverest.net) The Everest ban is starting to take its toll. Last week, the Kazakh Everest-Lhotse traverse was called off and now also Alex Abramov of the 7summits club feels forced to scrub the 2008 Everest season.
"Everest is difficult and dangerous mountain and climbing it is a big risk even in good conditions," Alex wrote in an email Monday.
Here goes Abramov's explanation of the decision:
"The current situation points against a successful climb this year. While it's possible to summit at 'all costs', the tense situation poses a great risk for expedition leaders and members to make a mistake and get in trouble."
"We discuss:
- probably Chinese will climb before 1 May,
- probably Nepal will let us climb to C3 or even South Col,
- maybe it is possible to get some acclimatization on the small peaks and then climb Everest for 3 weeks..."
"We ask somebody to let us climb Everest in any case, at any price, and during the entire expedition we will worry about what the chances are that the Chinese will summit later than planned; and deny us our summit in turn."
"If you climb a great mountain, you shouldn't start out with shame and humiliation and continue the entire climb in such a situation."
"I have led and organized 6 Everest expeditions and have enough experience to understand that this situation is very dangerous, to success and life both. For that reason I have decided to cancel my expedition and move it to the next year. All members support my decision and share my point of view."
"Moneywise, my members' payments will go towards next year's expedition which will take place without any extra charge to them, while I'll fly to Kathmandu tomorrow to give my Sherpa team some money in support of their situation."
Russian Alex Abramov is one of the largest expedition leaders on Everest north side. His Seven Summit Club organizes budget expeditions to Everest, Cho Oyu, and the Seven Summits.
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