Everest 2006: Philippines - the battle for a first
While a national team prepares to attempt Everest in 2007, Romeo Garduce has made plans of his own. The guy is already in Namche Bazaar, ready to become the first Philippine to summit Everest this spring. Image of Romi on Cho Oyu's summit in September 2005. He became the first Philippine to climb an 8000m peak and broke the altitude record reached by a Filipino climber. Image courtesy of Romeo's blog (click to enlarge).
11:15 am CST Mar 16, 2006
(MountEverest.net) It's not the first time a national climbing federation gears up for a big 'first' on Everest - and gets outrun by a single climber or a small team.
Not surprising given all the red tape a 'national' team needs to go through. An independent climber, on the other hand, can easily show up in BC, summit and make it back while the ‘national’ team is barely over the crux of bureaucracy and politics back home.
This spring, Philippine Romeo "Romi" Garduce, may do just that. Climbing with an international team from the Nepali side, Romi is already in Namche preparing for what may prove to be the climb of his life.
The contenders
Romeo ‘Romi’ Garduce, is a member of the University of Philippines Mountain club (belonging to the MFPI). He has summited Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua and Cho Oyu as part of his “Climb for a cause” project, which started in the late nineties.
On the other side is the 1st Philippine Mount Everest Expedition team (FPMEE), a project headed by a former undersecretary for Transportation Arturo Valdez, and Reggie Pablo, president of the MFPI. The idea was launched in 2003 and 30 candidates applied for a spot in the expedition – of whom only 14 currently remain.
They are undergoing alpine training and preparatory climbs in order to attempt Everest in 2007. Among its strongest members are veteran adventure racers Leo Oracion and Erwin Emata, who summited Muztagh Ata in August 2005.
Garduce’s sudden move and FPMEE’s response
Leo and Erwin’s summit broke the previous Philippine altitude record set by Garduce on Aconcagua, which in turn was broken by Garduce again when he summited Cho Oyu last year.
Apparently, there is plenty of friction between the two contenders. Funny enough though, both are supported by The North Face.
Francis Lim, a Philippine mountaineer and member of the local mountaineering federation MFPI, commented the situation to ExplorersWeb: “It is unclear why both parties were not able to consolidate their plans and schedules into one; maybe Garduce was not included in the team in the first place. The fact is, some time ago the FPMEE announced they had chosen 2007 for the feat, while Garduce continued with his own program.”
“Things suddenly turned interesting when, out of the blue, Garduce left Manila on March 4 for Nepal, ready to become the first Filipino to attempt and hopefully summit Everest.”
“Meanwhile, FPMEE announced yesterday in the national Philstar newspaper that Oracion and Emata are currently training in the Himalayas as well, in order to conduct a reconnaissance climb on Everest and thus guide the rest of the team next year. There will be a full support team with them in BC.”
“I wonder if what they call a “reconnaissance” climb only includes the lower sections of the peak, or if it will end up in an actual summit bid from Nepal. Whatever it is, 2006 will be an interesting Everest season for Filipino climbers.“
Fair or not?
Fair game or not? That is the question – with no clear answer. The fact is, Romeo Garduce is already in Namche Bazaar (check his website). A few days ago he wrote the following statements in his blog:
“Ideally, I would prefer to just climb on my own, quietly, rather than 'advertise' or announce my plans to public… I was hoping somebody would attempt Everest before I do, but - it's been 52 long years and nobody has attempted it yet…somebody has to, and now... I'm already in position to try it. It's the ripe time, and I have to climb it, it's like - it's not my choice anymore..I must climb it!"
“Some people think this is a race, well this is far from being a race. How I'd wish somebody is here right now, ready to make an attempt with me, I'd prefer a small team than be a lone Pinoy trying to top the Great peak. But as they say, ‘better to execute a good plan now than a perfect plan tomorrow’. I'll act now.”
The title of “Everest summiteer” goes much further when accompanied by a “first”. Even if the times of nations “conquering” the highest mountains on Earth are long gone, Everest still holds an attractive challenge and the promise of fame and glory for patriots everywhere.
In countries with no climbing tradition or solid climbing federations, the choice to launch a Himalayan expedition rests with private parties who have the technical and financial resources to take on such a task.
However, in other cases, government or public entities (such as a climbing federation), might be tempted to launch a ‘National’ expedition, aiming to plant their flag at the top of the world.
Romeo "Romi" Garduce (spelled 'Garduch' in some media) hopes to become the first Philippine to summit Mt. Everest. A systems analyst in his 30’s, Garduce summited Cho Oyu in September 2005. On Jan 1, 2005, he became the first Philippine to climb Aconcagua. Now he is joining an international team for Everest, and will follow Hillary’s route from the Nepali side of the mountain. Romi plans to acclimatize on a lower peak in the Khumbu area – fellow Philippine Jon Villareal will join him on the acclimatization peak.
Francis Lim, currently based in Hongkong for work commitment, summited Kinabalu last year, aside from other climbs in the Philippines. This year, he is focusing his energy for Mt Siguniang.
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