Russell Brice contradicts his expedition climbers' reports
The Cave where David was found is 1000 ft lower down than the place where Himex had their own people saved in 2001 (the Third Step): Below the First Step the distance from the Cave to the high camp is quite short - about 300 ft. North side climbers estimate that a strong Sherpa could probably descend from the Cave to the camp in about 15 minutes and climb back to the Cave with oxygen in an hour. Then at least one person, supporting him under his arm, would have likely been required to help him stumble down the gully to the camp (there is fixed rope all the way to the camp). Click image to enlarge.
01:45 am CDT Jun 13, 2006
In a recent press release, close to one month after David Sharp's death, Russell Brice contradicts his expedition climbers' earlier reports to media. Meanwhile, more of the world's best climbers (latest American top climber Ed Viesturs, check below) have made statements about the feasibility to make rescues high up.
Russell Brice, and several of his supporters have also repeatedly reported on Brice's contributions in Everest rescues, but failed to mention when Russell's own guides and climbers have been helped high up - in one instance by three climbers who gave up their summit to save two Himex members lives.
David Sharp
In his press release about David Sharp (check the full version on Himex website in the links section), Brice writes that he did have contact with his climbers from midnight and onwards, but there was no mention of David Sharp until 9.30 in the morning.
The press release contradicts earlier statements from a Himex member who told ExWeb that shortly after midnight, Himex climbers discovered David Sharp next to the rock cave while it was still dark, and reported to Russell Brice that he was alive, shivering, not wearing gloves and showed signs of severe frostbite on his hands and face.
Brice further writes that when he did learn of David Sharp from "a climber" at 09.30 he did not know who he was, or even that somebody was in trouble.
This contradicts Mark Inglis statements to media that he radioed Russ who said about David, "You know, he's been there X number of hours, been there without oxygen, you know, he's effectively dead."
Trying to assist with getting the mask back onto David
Brice writes that at 9.30 am, David was still alive but unconscious and that his arms were frozen to the elbow and his legs were frozen to the knee, and that he had frost bite to the nose. As for Himex assistance, Russell writes that the Himex climber tried to put David's own oxygen mask back onto him, and then was told by Russ to come down.
Russell also mentioned that his sirdar Phurba along with Lakpa from Arun Trek and one of the Turkish members reached David and tried to help him around 11.45 . Phurba found some oxygen and gave this to David, and they attempted to get David to his feet, but he kept collapsing, so they shifted David just a few feet into the sun and then left.
This part of the press release confirms the Turkish climbers’ statement who said they passed David on descent, found him still alive and tried to help.
Contrary to Himex, the Turkish climbers stated that they saw David also on ascent - in two different groups even - shortly before midnight: At one point he was sitting up and talking although "in a restrained way," they said.
Russell states that he can not comment on his members movements high on the mountain. ExplorersWeb have contacted several guides in the Himex expedition but received no replies.
Table turned in 2001
In 2001 a total of 12 people; 9 Sherpas and 3 climbers helped to rescue 2 Himex climbers, one guide and a client, from close to the summit of Everest. 1 of the Sherpas and of the 3 westerners gave up their summit attempt for the 2 men. Brice's expedition was short on oxygen supply high on the mountain and none of Brice's staff or climbers where able to help in the rescue.
Phu Dorje, David Hahn, Tap Richard and Jason Tanguay were part of the Mallory expedition and on the way to the summit. David Hahn had already summited 3 times, but the others were out for their first shot. Eric Simonson was on the radio from BC. On the way up during the night the 4 climbers found three Russians at the Mushroom Rock (between 1st and 2nd step).
The Russians were in poor condition, so Phu Nuru surrended his oxygen to them and gave up his summit attempt. The Russians were able to descend. The three remaining climbers learned that Himex climbers Andy Lapkass and Jaime Vinals were in trouble and had spent the night high up after making the summit the day before.
The three men found Andy and Jaime alive at third step at around 7 am in the morning. They could talk but not move. David, Tap and Jason administered high flow oxygen for almost two hours in addition to high altitude drugs and water to the two men. Next they took Andy and Jaime down, very slow, from 8700 meters all the way to camp. Much as Lincoln Hall, Andy and Jaime improved during descent. (Make sure to check Dave Hahn's debrief on Mountainzone in the links section).
Ed Viesturs "At least sit there with him and try to provide a little comfort"
David Sharp was not so lucky and many of the world's top climbers have reacted to the incident with little surprise. American Ed Viesturs, who has scaled all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks without bottled oxygen, told Seattle Times, "This isn't the first time this has happened, passing people who are dying is not uncommon. Unfortunately, there are those who say, 'It's not my problem. I've spent all this money and I'm going to the summit.' "
Viesturs himself helped to rescue a lady climber a few years back just 300 feet beneath Everest's summit. "We put her on oxygen right away, and we carefully pushed and pulled her down the mountain," Viesturs told Seattle Times. "If you're strong enough to mount a summit attempt, you're strong enough to attempt a rescue, or at least sit there with him and try to provide a little comfort."
Juan ‘Juanito’ Oiarzabal holds the world record in 8000ers summits (21 in total) and has experienced many rescues on very high altitude. He told ExplorersWeb about Everest, “That mountain turned into a circus years ago, and it's getting worse – I don’t have the slightest interest in going back there, ever. Moreover, I actually try to avoid reading on what’s going on there – I simply don’t care anymore.” And about David Sharp, “It’s a classic [on Everest] - someone is in trouble, and people pass by, not even taking a quick look at him.”
No radio calls made for assistance
Altitude doctors have commented to ExplorersWeb that people don't die from frostbite and that speech is a very good sign. It seems that there were no radio calls made on the mountain to ask available Sherpas and climbers from other expeditions to assist in a rescue of David Sharp.
The Cave where David was found is 1000 ft lower down than the place where Himex had their own people saved in 2001: Below the First Step the distance from the Cave to the high camp is quite short - about 300 ft. When climber's brains are shutting down from O2 deprivation, it takes quite some time to revive them - much more than a few minutes.
Veteran north side expedition leaders estimate that a strong Sherpa could probably descend from the Cave to the camp in about 15 minutes and climb back to the Cave with oxygen in an hour. After a few hours of oxygen, water and altitude drug administration, at least one person, supporting David under his arm, would have likely been required to help him stumble down the gully to the camp (there is fixed rope all the way to the camp).
Everest Inc
In Russell Brice's press release, there is no mention of the video where David is said to have stated his name into the camera as late as 10.30 in the morning. The only indication is a passage that reads "They [David's family] have no interest in the release of recorded materials."
For Russell Brice who has summited the peak twice, Everest is an enterprise, rather than a climb. In his press release, Russell mentions that Himex have had 23 commercial expeditions and 270 people on the summits of 8,000m peaks. Himex fees range between USD $8000-$40000 per climb. Russell Brice in addition provides treks, North Col climbs and logistics support for other Everest expeditions at a cost, including supplementary oxygen and weather reports. ExplorersWeb estimate the Himex coorporation sales at around USD 10 million - probably the largest in Everest history.
Russell Brice had his first commercial success on Everest north side in 1995: 3 strong members, Alison Hargreaves, Constantin Lactusu and Greg Child made the summit together with Karsang Sherpa and Lobsang Temba. The year was significant, as 60 people summited via N Col - NE Ridge compared to only 4 via S Col - SE Ridge. On the north side that year, were also Henry Todd (with Anatoli Boukreev as lead guide) and Jonathan Tinker (with Babu Shirri Sherpa as guide).
There were no Himex summits in the following year but in 1997, Russell summited himself for the first time, on May 29th with Dick Price (on his sixth attempt) a NZ MD that defended Inglis and Brice in the recent Sharp incident. In 1998, Russell summited again - on May 25 with Japanese Tsuzuki Sumiyo and Karsang Sherpa.
In 1999 Karsang and Lobsang summited again, now with three clients and Himex 2006 Sirdar Phurba Tashi Sherpa.
In 2001, 15 people from Himex summited on the 23rd of May, again led by Karsang, Lobsang and now also Phurba Tashi. Himex also employed Andrew Lapkass as a lead guide after he first summited Everest in 1999 from the South side as lead guide with Henry Todd. In 1999, Adrew became altitude sick and was helped down by Pete Athens team. In 2001, he was rescued again, now on the north side - only 450 feet from the summit (8700 meter) by three IMG climbers who gave up their summit in the rescue.
In 2002, Phurba Tashi summited twice with two different clients. That fall, Marco Seffredi summited with Phurba Tashi, Panuru and Da Tenzing but perished on descent.
2003-2006 Russell Brice and his strong Sherpas began to bring larger groups to the peak, achieving about 30 summits per year (including Sherpas and guides).
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